Northern NSW – 28 Jul – 2 Aug

Another short adventure, this time to the Granite tors of the Northern NSW, nestled in a valley at about 1000m elevation. We travelled along Mt Lindsay Highway stopping at the EM Tilley Park to enjoy the chorus of birds along the forested edge of the Logan River.

The ancient volcanic landscape is spectacular along this road. As we do, we explored lesser used roads and small towns, Liston is one small town worth stopping at. So is Deepwater.

Photo: Robert Latham, Getty Images

Tucked away in the high country of New England, New South Wales, the historic township of Emmaville is the kind of country destination that captures your heart the moment you arrive. Surrounded by a rugged landscape punctuated by distinctive granite knolls, sprawling eucalyptus bushland, and bright splashes of golden wattle, Emmaville offers a peaceful escape, rich in pioneering history, natural wonders, and genuine country hospitality.

Originally known as Vegetable Creek before being renamed in 1882, Emmaville owes much of its origin to the massive tin rush of the 1870s. In its heyday, the area was one of the richest tin-producing fields in Australia, attracting thousands of miners from around the world.

Today, that rich mineral heritage lives on:

  • Gem Fossicking: The surrounding creeks and soils remain a treasure trove for amateur prospectors and lapidary enthusiasts looking to try their luck panning for quartz crystals, topaz, sapphires, and tin.
  • Emmaville Mining Museum: A must-visit stop in town, this collection is exceptionally well set up and remarkably informative. Housing thousands of mineral specimens, antique mining machinery, photos, and local artifacts, the museum brings the town’s booming boomtown days vividly back to life.

What makes a visit to Emmaville truly memorable, though, is its warm community spirit. The locals here are delightfully welcoming and always up for a friendly chat, whether you’re asking for directions or swapping stories over a cold drink.

Where to Stay & Eat:

  • Emmaville Caravan Park: A quiet, convenient base camp featuring spotless amenities and wonderfully friendly staff who make you feel right at home from day one.
  • The Club Hotel: When the crisp high-country night air sets in, there’s no better retreat than the warmth of the Club Hotel. Inside, you’ll find a cozy atmosphere alongside generous portions of delicious, hearty pub food that hits the spot after a full day of exploring.

Just a short drive away lies the breathtaking expanse of Torrington State Conservation Area. The rugged eucalyptus forest is a paradise for bushwalkers, birdwatchers, and nature lovers alike. During flowering season, the bush bursts into vibrant life with brilliant yellow wattle blooms contrasting against the grey-green foliage and dramatic rock formations.

A standout highlight of the forest is Thunderbolt’s Lookout. NSW National Parks has done a fantastic job maintaining the trails and facilities here, making the track accessible while preserving the area’s wild feel. The lookout rewards visitors with sweeping, picturesque panoramas across the granite plateau and wilderness below—a view named after the infamous bushranger Captain Thunderbolt, who once roamed these very hills.

Whether you’re hunting for gems, stepping back in time at the museum, or taking in the expansive views from Thunderbolt’s Lookout, Emmaville delivers an authentic slice of regional Australia filled with natural beauty and unbeatable local warmth.

Oh and by the way, the panther story from this region is true, it was an escaped circus animal, the story can be found in the museum.

We did visit Glen Innes, another beautiful historic town where we particularly enjoyed the Standing Stones. The final end to this segment of our travels was lunch in the Parrots Nest at Tenterfield with its beautiful Antique collections, great food and fabulous service.

Deepwater Railway Station
Deepwater
Glen Innes
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