Western Queensland – Aug-Sep – 3 Sep

It’s a beautiful morning, clear sky, cool winds, the rising golden rays on the gorge enhance what is already a stunning landscape.

We travel north to Theodore for morning tea and after visiting the information centre we travel some back roads to the Malakoff lookout which provides an uninterrupted view of the patchwork of farmland, woodlands and mountains.

We pass the first of the coal mines in this region not being inclined to look at more we turn east to Eidsvold, passing through the gold mining town of Cracow.

There are large areas of forestry land and heavily timbered cattle country, these landscapes are good for the soul after seeing some terrorised Brigalow country. Notable vegetation includes Semi-Evergreen Vine Thickets (SEVT / “Softwood Scrub”), Brigalow and Belah Scrub Communities and Fringing Riparian Riverine Forests.

Overview of Theodore, Queensland

Nestled along the banks of the Dawson River and Castle Creek in the Banana Shire—approximately 105 kilometres southwest of Biloela—Theodore is often described as an inland oasis. Shaped like a wedge or point between the confluence of these two watercourses, the town is renowned for its wide, palm-lined avenues, giving it a lush, almost tropical aesthetic in rural Central Queensland.

Originally surveyed under the name Castle Creek, it was developed in the 1920s as a model settlement to support the Dawson Valley Irrigation Scheme. The town’s design was masterminded by the celebrated civil engineer Dr. J.J.C. Bradfield (famed for designing the Sydney Harbour Bridge) and was later renamed in honour of the Queensland Premier at the time, Edward Granville Theodore (“Red Ted”).

Today, Theodore remains a welcoming hub for travellers and campers, featuring:

  • Junction Park: A scenic, affordable camping spot situated right at the junction of Castle Creek and the Dawson River.
  • Neville Hewitt Park: Surrounds the town’s iconic water tower and serves as a shady picnic ground and children’s playground.
  • Rotary Park: Located along Fifth Avenue, offering views over Castle Creek and access to walking paths.

The Dawson River and Its Environmental Values

The Dawson River is the lifeblood of Theodore and one of the primary tributaries of the Fitzroy River Basin—the second-largest catchment system in Australia draining directly into the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

Key environmental and ecological values include:

  • Riparian Biodiversity: The river and its connected creeks support critical freshwater species, including the Dawson River Saratoga (Scleropages leichardti), golden perch, and thriving populations of platypus, which are monitored via local environmental DNA (eDNA) sampling programs.
  • Unique Wetland Ecosystems: The upper Dawson catchment is home to rare “boggomoss” mound spring wetlands and permanent deep-water holes that sustain endemic flora and provide drought refuges for wildlife.
  • Birdlife and Conservation: Riparian strips along the river host diverse bird populations, celebrated locally at the Castle Creek bird hide in Theodore, which features native bird-attracting flora and First Nations interpretive artwork.
  • Great Barrier Reef Catchment Health: Because the Dawson drains through the Fitzroy into the Coral Sea, maintaining riparian vegetation, controlling erosion, and preserving water quality along the Dawson are critical in managing sediment and nutrient runoff onto coastal seagrasses and coral reefs.

Malakoff Lookout

Perched along the Malakoff Range (accessed via Malakoff Road just north of Theodore), the Malakoff Lookout provides one of the best elevated viewpoints in the district.

From the summit area, visitors can take in panoramic, sweeping views over the expansive Dawson River Valley, patchwork irrigated cotton and grain fields, cattle pastures, and the dramatic sandstone formations of the distant ranges. It is a favored stop for sunrise and sunset photography, as well as a scenic backdrop for regional outdoor events like the annual Malakoff Mountain trail runs.

Connection to Eidsvold

Located roughly 140 kilometres southeast of Theodore in the North Burnett region, Eidsvold—known as the “Beef Capital of the Burnett”—shares deep historical and transport links with Theodore:

  • Eidsvold–Theodore Road (State Route 73): This fully sealed, 144 km route serves as the direct overland corridor between the two towns, winding past the historic gold-mining town of Cracow, state forests, and the Burnett River basin before joining the Leichhardt Highway at Theodore.
  • Historical Routes: The road follows 19th-century bullock and pastoral tracks that once linked early cattle stations like Thomas Archer’s Eidsvold run (1848) and Woolthorpe Station (1850) near Theodore. Segments in this corridor were also fortified during World War II as an inland defense transport network.
  • Economic Ties: Both towns share an economy rooted in beef production, grazing, and timber, with the road linking the agricultural irrigation networks of the Dawson Valley directly to the Burnett Highway.

We are camped at the Eidsvold Showgrounds tonight, so we take advantage of the many close dining venues and in the cool of the late afternoon we wander down town for dinner. Plenty of native birds along the nearby creek.

Theodore Weir, Dawson River
Burnett River at Theodore
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Western Queensland – Aug-Sep – 2 Sep

We start the day listening to a chorus of birds backed up by Peron’s Tree Frog and Sedge Frogs. The man made lake is an amazing resource for the bird watchers and local alike. It is also the towns park run venue. We counted 40 different species of birds at this park.

After a walk around the wetlands to count the birds we visit the local cafe and then head for the Juandah Heritage Site. A lot of valuable local history is saved here, and there is plenty of material about Ludwig Liechhart, the explorer. We make a quick stop at the Wandoan Information centre for a chat and then head north again.

We take time stopping at Taroom for lunch then onto Palm Creek before continuing on to our campsite at Isla Gorge.

Isla Gorge National Park: Summary & Values

Located roughly 35 km north of Taroom along the Leichhardt Highway on Wulli Wulli Country, Isla Gorge National Park forms part of Queensland’s rugged Sandstone Wilderness.

  • Geological Foundations: The park is defined by deeply dissected Precipice Sandstone (Lower Jurassic), eroded over millions of years into sheer cliffs, monoliths, natural arches, and narrow gorges. The cliff faces contain varying iron and mineral concentrations that shift in tone from pale yellow to vibrant orange and pink as the sun’s angle changes throughout the day.
  • Flora & Ecological Refugia: The plateau rims host dry sclerophyll forests featuring species such as Eucalyptus beaniana (a rare ironbark) along with seasonal blooms of wattles, boronias, red grevilleas, and grasstrees. In sheltered gully heads below the plateau rims, microclimates support semi-evergreen vine thickets (SEVT)—a drought-tolerant rainforest variant containing distinctive bottle trees (Brachychiton rupestris).
  • Fauna: The dissected terrain provides habitat for the shy Herbert’s rock-wallaby, Petrogale herberti, peregrine falcons nesting on isolated cliff faces, wedge-tailed eagles, and diverse honeyeaters attracted to the seasonal canopy blossom.
  • Cultural & Historical Significance: Nearby Flagstaff Hill preserves an early hand-paved stone road constructed in the early 1860s. Built with large, hand-placed rock slabs less than two decades after European arrival, this pass served as an essential freight corridor transporting wool from interior stations near Roma down to the coastal port at Rockhampton.

Juandah Historical Site (Wandoan)

The Juandah Heritage Site, situated at Windeyer Road in Wandoan (the township originally bore the name Juandah until 1926), marks the central homestead and outstation complex of the 1840s pastoral run.

  • Historical Significance: Established in the late 1840s by pastoral pioneers following Ludwig Leichhardt’s inland expedition, Juandah Station grew into one of the largest pastoral holdings in the Western Downs. At its peak, the station operated across hundreds of square miles, carrying up to 50,000 head of cattle handled by roughly 80 stockmen.
  • Built Heritage & Social Fabric: Several historic slab and timber structures remain intact, most notably the Old Juandah Store (built in the 1850s). Beyond storing dry goods and station rations, this building served as the area’s first postal depot and schoolroom. The adjacent Folk Museum maintains extensive collections of 19th-century transport, timber-getting equipment, and domestic settlement artefacts.
  • Environmental Setting: The site overlooks alluvial black-soil brigalow (Acacia harpophylla) and downs country, showcasing the agricultural transition from native savannah and open scrub into Queensland’s historic pastoral heartland.

Palm Tree Creek (North of Taroom)

Just north of Taroom along the Leichhardt Highway, Palm Tree Creek (often referenced locally as Palm Creek) carries significant ecological and historical weight:

  • Botanical Rarity (Livistona nitida): The creek is famed for stands of the Dawson River fan palm (Livistona nitida), an endemic palm species restricted to the gorges, creeks, and river channels of the Dawson River catchment. These tall, dark-trunked palms represent relict populations from wetter prehistoric climates, thriving along the permanent spring-fed pools and sandy creek beds of the catchment.
  • Leichhardt’s 1844 Expedition: When explorer Ludwig Leichhardt travelled through the Dawson Valley in November 1844 (blazing the famous Coolibah tree that still stands in Taroom’s town centre), his party crossed the river and camped at Palm Tree Creek for several days to rest livestock, gather provisions, and document the landscape before heading west into the Expedition Range.

Regional Geology & Petrified Wood

The region between Taroom, Wandoan, Miles, and Chinchilla sits over the eastern margin of the Surat Basin (an intracratonic sedimentary basin overlying the deeper Bowen Basin):

  • Formation Environment (Jurassic, ~140–180 Ma): During the Middle to Late Jurassic, high-energy braided river systems and lacustrine floodplains (associated with stratigraphic units such as the Walloon Coal Measures and Injune Creek Group) supported dense forests dominated by ancestral conifers (Araucariaceae, closely related to modern Bunya and Norfolk pines), seed ferns (Pentoxylon), and tree ferns.
  • Silicification & Fossilisation: Periodic regional volcanic activity repeatedly blanketed these low-lying floodplains with silica-rich volcanic ash falls and mudflows. Saturated groundwater percolating through the sediments dissolved the volcanic silica, which infiltrated fallen logs. Molecule by molecule, microscopic chalcedony and quartz crystals replaced the organic cellulose and lignin, preserving growth rings, bark striations, and cellular xylem structures in exquisite detail.
  • Colouration & Mineral Staining: The diverse spectrum of colours seen in Western Downs petrified wood—ranging from deep reds, oranges, and golden ambers to porcelain whites and rich blacks—is driven by trace secondary minerals present in the groundwater during permineralisation:
    • Iron oxides (Hematite, Goethite): Produce vibrant yellows, reds, and rust-browns.
    • Manganese oxides: Produce purples, charcoal greys, and deep black bands.
    • Pure Cryptocrystalline Silica: Produces glassy translucent whites and light greys.
  • Fossicking Legacy: Exposed today by erosion along river channels, gully cuts, and gravel deposits throughout the Dawson and Condamine catchments, this durable petrified wood rates between 6.5 and 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, making the Western Downs and Surat Basin fringe internationally renowned for lapidary and paleobotanical specimens.

We enjoy a beautiful sunset over the gorge, stars and Boobook are out.

Palm Creek, Dawson River fan palm , Livistona nitida
Isla Gorge
Star light upon Isla Gorge using this
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Western Queensland – Aug-Sep – 1 Sep

It’s a slow start, we enjoy the sunrise, early morning bird chorus and a chat with other campers. It’s then west to Jackson, former home of Marg. We have a cuppa with Joyce and Pat, memorialised in the Old School play shed.

We note the CWA hall is open and a meeting is in progress, it’s a Maranoa Council meeting for locals so we invite ourselves in and by chance we catchup with old friends and neighbours .

History of Jackson, Queensland

Located along the Warrego Highway in the Maranoa Region—approximately 85 km east of Roma and 57 km west of Miles—Jackson began as a small railway and pastoral outpost in the late 19th century. The town was named after John Woodward Wyndham Jackson, an early sawmiller at nearby Tchanning (now Jackson South) who later became a police magistrate in Mackay.

The extension of the Western Railway Line in the 1880s firmly established the settlement, supporting sheep and cattle grazing across the surrounding brigalow and open woodland country. A receiving office opened in 1887, followed by a formal post office in 1908. In the late 20th century, the region took on renewed industrial significance as a key transit and processing hub for southwest Queensland’s oil, gas, and coal seam gas (CSG) networks, connecting pipeline assets like the Jackson oil fields to eastern ports and refineries.

The Old School Play Shed & Pioneer Tribute

One of Jackson’s most cherished heritage sites is the Old Play Shed, situated in the township park in Railway Street.

  • Origins: The Jackson Provisional School opened in January 1892 and became Jackson State School in 1909. The open-sided timber play shed was constructed on the school grounds in 1908.
  • Relocation: Following the school’s closure in December 1983, the site lay dormant for nearly two decades. In 2002, local resident Ella Robinson petitioned the Bendemere Shire Council to rescue the 1908 play shed and move it to the town centre and railway precinct.
  • Tribute to Pioneers: In November 2012, the structure was revitalised into an open-air historical display. Outfitted with curated narrative panels, photographs, and settler records, it preserves the social and educational heritage of early families who cleared and farmed the district.

The Old Noonga Cream Shed (Jackson–Wandoan Road)

Heading north out of Jackson along the Jackson–Wandoan Road (featured as part of the regional Country Insight Drive / Tourist Drive #3), travellers encounter reminders of the area’s mixed-farming history.

Approximately 21 km north near the Gullagimbi turnoff sits the Old Noonga Cream Shed alongside the historic Noonga State School site. In the first half of the 20th century, before bulk refrigerated milk tankers became standard, smallholder dairies across southern Queensland relied on roadside cream and milk sheds. These simple timber shelters protected heavy metal cream cans from direct sunlight and dust while farmers awaited horse-drawn wagons, trucks, or rail connections to regional butter and dairy factories. Today, it stands as a roadside heritage marker of early rural enterprise.

Noonga Community Hall

Located roughly 1 km past the cream shed along the Jackson–Wandoan Road, the Noonga Community Hall & Recreation Grounds remains an essential social lifeline for the surrounding grazing community.

In isolated farming districts where homesteads are separated by vast distances, halls like Noonga provide a dedicated communal gathering place. It regularly hosts:

  • Community dances and social functions: Including the annual Noonga Black Tie Affair and traditional bush dances.
  • Recreation and sports: Local tennis days and recreation gatherings at the adjacent courts.
  • Civic meetings: Council engagement sessions, regional emergency briefings, and agricultural network events.

Waterloo Plain Environmental Park (Wandoan)

Further north at Wandoan, the Waterloo Plain Environmental Park (managed by Western Downs Regional Council) offers a 11-hectare wetland refuge:

  • Wetlands & Wildlife: The park centres around an expansive, water-lily covered lake featuring a protected central island that serves as a safe nesting and roosting habitat. It is a premier birdwatching destination, home to over 30+ bird species including the white-necked heron, rainbow bee-eater, whistling kite, and shining bronze cuckoo.
  • Free Camping: The park provides free short-stay camping suitable for tents, campervans, caravans, and big rigs.
  • Amenities: Facilities include hot showers, flushing toilets, picnic tables, sheltered barbecues, rubbish bins, exercise stations, and paved walkways with bridges winding through the parklands.

We enjoy a delicious meal at the Bushman Motel Restaurant, a very comfortable venue and friendly staff.

The frogs are calling in abundance around our camp they are at our doorstep and would out complete a passing road train for noise. The starlit night is glorious.

Additional Credible Resources

Venus and the Windmill, Waterloo Plain Environmental Park
Jackson Old School play shed
Woleebee Creek
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Western Queensland – Aug-Sep – 31 Aug

It’s a beautiful morning so we take a morning stroll through the woodlands noting many species. It’s time to leave but we catchup with the caretaker, old work colleagues and reptile experts who we have known for many years and by chance we find them at Myall Park Botanic Gardens.

We travel the back roads, it’s always interesting. We encounter plenty of heavy vehicle movement on the Condamine Highway but we are stopped on the Condamine River at Condamine for a cuppa tea so we watch the traffic go by.

It’s a bit of a walk down memory lane for Marg, a drive around Miles and the drive west to Dulacca.

From open-air history and prehistoric geology to peaceful waterside camping, the region surrounding Miles and Dulacca in Queensland’s Western Downs is a fantastic road-trip destination. Some of the highlights are:

  • Miles Historical Village Museum, is one of Australia’s premier regional open-air museums, the village recreates early pioneering life with over 30 authentic buildings. A standout highlight is its extensive lapidary and fossil collection—home to an impressive display of local fossilised wood, petrified trees, and prehistoric palms, showcasing millions of years of natural history. For those interested they are found in Jurassic rock formations. The indigenous displays were informative and worthy of the time to read carefully. The Great Artesian Basin material was likewise and the Norman Donpon lapidary display was extensive and spectacular, a real asset to the Queensland community. We find family and extended family of a Marg’s noted through the various displays.
  • Free & Affordable Camping:
    • Gil Weir: Located just south of Miles on the Dogwood Creek, it is a tranquil, free camping retreat. The shaded water’s edge makes it an exceptional spot for kayaking, fishing, and waking up right beside the water. A great place for bird watching.
    • Progress Park (Columboola): Another great, accessible stopover offering a quiet, low-cost/free bush camp setting with essential amenities, making touring the Western Downs budget-friendly.
  • The wetlands, weirs, and native bushland surrounding Gil Weir and local parks provide thriving habitats for native birdlife. Keen birdwatchers can regularly spot honeyeaters, kingfishers, parrots, waterbirds, and raptors along the riparian corridors.
  • Dulacca Hotel: No trip through the area is complete without pulling up at the historic Dulacca Hotel (“The Pink Pub on the Hill”). Known for its warm, country hospitality, welcoming staff, and hearty meals, it serves as the perfect spot to unwind and swap stories after a day of exploring.
  • Gas extraction is also big out here, as is wind generation, we can see the wind farms around Dulacca.

The evening is beautifully finished with a rising red moon.

A rising red moon
Grazing and Poplar Box landscape around Glenmorgan
Condamine River
Brolga family eating bugs amongst the wheat
The Condamine River, at Condamine
Dulacca Hotel

A rising red moon

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Western Queensland – Aug-Sep – 30 Aug

Nestled just outside Glenmorgan in Queensland’s Western Downs region, Myall Park Botanic Garden is a 130-hectare living archive of Australia’s arid and semi-arid flora. Established as a private labor of love, it has grown into one of Queensland’s most significant heritage-listed native plant sanctuaries.

History & Heritage

The garden was established in the early 1940s by self-taught botanist David (Dave) Gordon AM (1899–2001) on a sandy ridge of his pastoral property. Driven by a passion to preserve species that were disappearing due to land clearing, Gordon gathered seeds and propagation material from remote arid regions across Australia.

His wife, Dorothy Gordon, was an accomplished botanical artist who documented the flora in detailed watercolor studies. Today, the garden is stewarded by a non-profit board of directors, maintaining both the living collection and several Queensland Heritage-listed structures—including Gordon’s historic Seed Room, propagation nursery, and an on-site art gallery exhibiting Dorothy’s original botanical watercolors.

A Unique Semi-Arid Environment

Myall Park protects over 980 native plant species—many of which are vulnerable, endangered, or extinct in their native wild ranges—alongside more than 320 species of native fauna.

The reserve combines curated botanical garden “rooms” with untouched bushland ecosystems:

  • Diverse Plant Divisions: Showcases collections of wattles (Acacia), eucalypts, mallee gums, eremophilas (emu bushes), and Western Australian dryland flora adapted to low rainfall and sandy soils.
  • Wildlife Haven: With its natural lagoon, bird hide, and untouched bush canopy, the garden attracts birdwatchers tracking arid-zone honeyeaters, parrots, and fairy-wrens, as well as herpetologists studying regional reptile populations.

The Birthplace of Iconic Hybrid Grevilleas

Myall Park is renowned in Australian horticulture as the birthplace of Grevillea ‘Robyn Gordon’.

During the late 1950s, Dave Gordon planted diverse grevillea species in close proximity to encourage natural cross-pollination. In 1959, he discovered a chance hybrid between Grevillea bipinnatifida and Grevillea banksii, naming it after his daughter Robyn. With its cylindrical, deep-red blossom clusters and nearly year-round flowering habit, it went on to become one of the best-selling and most iconic Australian native garden cultivars in the world.

Other notable cultivars nurtured at Myall Park include:

  • Grevillea ‘Sandra Gordon’ (with striking golden-yellow flower spikes)
  • Grevillea ‘Merinda Gordon’
  • Grevillea ‘Dorothy Gordon’ (identified in 2006, featuring soft foliage and mauve-pink blooms)

Bushwalks & Eco-Camping

The reserve offers an immersive outdoor experience with well-marked trails and overnight stays:

  • Walking Trails: A network of walking tracks winds through both planted botanical sections and natural bushland. Highlights include the Grevillea Walk, the Lake View Trail along the lagoon, and interpretive paths through mallee and Chinchilla White Gum communities.
  • Camping & Stays: The grounds feature powered and unpowered campsites, the newer Camp Brolga tent area, pop-up glamping setups overlooking the lagoon, a communal camp kitchen, and restored 1950s heritage accommodations like Avochie Cottage and The Quarters.

By shear luck the day we arrived was the Annual Spring Fair, Spring Day

The Annual Spring Fair (“Spring Day”)

Held once a year in late August to welcome the spring blooming season, the Spring Fair (Spring Day) is Myall Park’s signature community event.

  • The Fun Run & Walk: The morning kicks off with the Janine Pechey Memorial Fun Run, featuring 3.5 km and 8.5 km circuits along garden trails and a mini-dash for young children.
  • Exhibitions & Workshops: The day includes keynote presentations from visiting naturalists and wildlife experts (such as live reptile demonstrations or botanical propagation talks), open gallery exhibits, and guided botanical walks.
  • Community Markets: Visitors can browse stalls featuring hard-to-find native plants propagated from the gardens, handmade arts and crafts, morning tea, and barbecue stalls.
Wilga
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Girraween- 1 – 3 Aug 2026

On our return journey home we drop into Girraween National Park for 2 nights.

Girraween National Park is a Granite landscape wonderland located in Queensland’s Granite Belt near the New South Wales border, is one of Australia’s most striking natural landscapes. Known for its dramatic granite outcrops, balancing boulders, seasonal wildflowers and crystal‑clear creeks, Girraween offers a rare blend of rugged beauty and ecological richness.

Girraween’s defining feature is its massive granite formations—towering domes, precariously balanced boulders and sculpted arches that create a surreal, almost otherworldly terrain. Trails such as The Pyramid and Granite Arch lead visitors through these geological wonders, offering panoramic views across the park’s rugged skyline.

Clear-running streams like Bald Rock Creek weave through the landscape, forming tranquil waterholes that contrast beautifully with the stark granite.

Golden wattles splashed colour over the boulder strewn bushland.

Wildlife thrives here too. We sighted superb fairy-wrens, yellow‑faced honeyeaters, red‑necked wallabies, brush‑tailed possums and many other bird species.

The newly upgraded Girraween Visitor Precinct features ample parking, modern amenities and an architecturally designed information centre with interactive displays. qld.gov.au

Popular walking tracks include:

  • Bald Rock Creek Circuit — gentle, scenic and family-friendly
  • Mount Norman Peak Trail — challenging with rewarding summit views
  • The Sphinx and Turtle Rock — iconic granite formations

Camping options range from tent sites to remote bush camps, giving visitors flexibility in how they experience the park’s wilderness.

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Northern NSW – 28 Jul – 2 Aug

Another short adventure, this time to the Granite tors of the Northern NSW, nestled in a valley at about 1000m elevation. We travelled along Mt Lindsay Highway stopping at the EM Tilley Park to enjoy the chorus of birds along the forested edge of the Logan River.

The ancient volcanic landscape is spectacular along this road. As we do, we explored lesser used roads and small towns, Liston is one small town worth stopping at. So is Deepwater.

Photo: Robert Latham, Getty Images

Tucked away in the high country of New England, New South Wales, the historic township of Emmaville is the kind of country destination that captures your heart the moment you arrive. Surrounded by a rugged landscape punctuated by distinctive granite knolls, sprawling eucalyptus bushland, and bright splashes of golden wattle, Emmaville offers a peaceful escape, rich in pioneering history, natural wonders, and genuine country hospitality.

Originally known as Vegetable Creek before being renamed in 1882, Emmaville owes much of its origin to the massive tin rush of the 1870s. In its heyday, the area was one of the richest tin-producing fields in Australia, attracting thousands of miners from around the world.

Today, that rich mineral heritage lives on:

  • Gem Fossicking: The surrounding creeks and soils remain a treasure trove for amateur prospectors and lapidary enthusiasts looking to try their luck panning for quartz crystals, topaz, sapphires, and tin.
  • Emmaville Mining Museum: A must-visit stop in town, this collection is exceptionally well set up and remarkably informative. Housing thousands of mineral specimens, antique mining machinery, photos, and local artifacts, the museum brings the town’s booming boomtown days vividly back to life.

What makes a visit to Emmaville truly memorable, though, is its warm community spirit. The locals here are delightfully welcoming and always up for a friendly chat, whether you’re asking for directions or swapping stories over a cold drink.

Where to Stay & Eat:

  • Emmaville Caravan Park: A quiet, convenient base camp featuring spotless amenities and wonderfully friendly staff who make you feel right at home from day one.
  • The Club Hotel: When the crisp high-country night air sets in, there’s no better retreat than the warmth of the Club Hotel. Inside, you’ll find a cozy atmosphere alongside generous portions of delicious, hearty pub food that hits the spot after a full day of exploring.

Just a short drive away lies the breathtaking expanse of Torrington State Conservation Area. The rugged eucalyptus forest is a paradise for bushwalkers, birdwatchers, and nature lovers alike. During flowering season, the bush bursts into vibrant life with brilliant yellow wattle blooms contrasting against the grey-green foliage and dramatic rock formations.

A standout highlight of the forest is Thunderbolt’s Lookout. NSW National Parks has done a fantastic job maintaining the trails and facilities here, making the track accessible while preserving the area’s wild feel. The lookout rewards visitors with sweeping, picturesque panoramas across the granite plateau and wilderness below—a view named after the infamous bushranger Captain Thunderbolt, who once roamed these very hills.

Whether you’re hunting for gems, stepping back in time at the museum, or taking in the expansive views from Thunderbolt’s Lookout, Emmaville delivers an authentic slice of regional Australia filled with natural beauty and unbeatable local warmth.

Oh and by the way, the panther story from this region is true, it was an escaped circus animal, the story can be found in the museum.

We did visit Glen Innes, another beautiful historic town where we particularly enjoyed the Standing Stones. The final end to this segment of our travels was lunch in the Parrots Nest at Tenterfield with its beautiful Antique collections, great food and fabulous service.

Deepwater Railway Station
Deepwater
Glen Innes
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Thane Creek, QLD

Another short trip, this time to Hart Hill Campground west of Warwick. A great spot, plenty of room, clean amenities and great hosts. We saw plenty of wildlife, including koalas, squirrel gliders, wallabies, frogs, many bird species and there is a resident platypus.

If you are so inclined you can pan and or metal detect for gold as the area is historically known for gold but heavily worked so don’t expect a truck load of precious metal. You will also need a QLD fossicking permit and comply with conditions.

We did enjoy driving the back roads, quite interesting forestry country. The trip home was interesting, we saw so many raptor species, many more than we would normally see. We wondered if there was a mouse issue out there.

Big Hill Road
Possibly Wahlenbergia sp, Australian Bluebell
Person’s Tree Frog,
Litoria peronii
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Brisbane Valley 15 – 16 Jul 26

After a few months at home we are doing a few short trips to get the vehicle and camping setup back into order.

We have spent a few days in the beautiful upper Brisbane Valley travelling the back roads and doing some reconnaissance of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail. This trail caters for walkers but chiefly bikes and at times horses.

We set the camper up at the Linville Campground which is adjacent to the old Linville Railway Station that celebrated its first train in 1910. The town is keen on looking after travellers, conveniences for campers are free but a donation is appreciated. Linville Store and Cafe is a good place for a meal. While walking around town we put together a good list of native birds that we sighted.

Time was also spent enjoying dinner at the Linville Hotel with old friends, the hotel has a great atmosphere, friendly staff and it provides tasty meals, it was wonderful to spend time with old mates. A fire under starry night. 🙂 rain on the roof of the tent in the middle of the night but we are warm and dry.

For those friends who enjoy geology as I do I put some information at the bottom of the blog. There is plenty of interesting vegetarian too, the tall eucalypt forests and vine scrub/dry rainforest are our favourites.

Around Linville, the landscape is defined by the Esk Rift Valley (or Esk Trough), a major geological structure formed during the Triassic period (around 200–250 million years ago). The area contains fascinating sedimentary layers, structural folds, and volcanic remnants that you can explore through the region’s natural parks and trails.

The following geological features and sites are highly worth exploring around the Linville region:

The Esk Rift Valley Sediments and Fault Lines

The town of Linville sits directly within the dissected ridges of the Triassic Esk Beds. This geological formation is roughly 10,000 feet thick and features rapidly alternating layers of quartz pebble conglomerates, shales, and dark green sandstones (fresh-water greywackes).

  • What to look for: If you explore the old railway cuttings along the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail heading towards Benarkin, you can view exposed rock walls displaying extensive evidence of ancient faulting and tectonic compression.
  • Linville Tuff: Roughly halfway through this sedimentary sequence sits the unique Linville Tuff, a distinct layer of white lithic tuff formed by ancient volcanic ash of trachytic composition.

Emu Creek Camping and Day-Use Area

Located just a short drive southwest of Linville within the Benarkin State Forest, this recreation area provides an excellent window into the rugged transition between the valley floor and the surrounding highlands.

  • Geological Context: The creek cuts directly through complex Mesozoic strata and alluvial deposits. Along the creek bed and its small tributaries, you can observe massive, rounded boulders of dark grey andesite embedded in volcanic matrices, showcasing the region’s intense volcanic history.
  • Erosion and Textures: Keep an eye out for weather-pitted conglomerates where softer volcanic fragments have washed away over millennia, leaving a distinct honeycombed or dimpled pattern on the rock faces.

The Colinton Complex Anticline and Local Formations

Just east and south of Linville lies a massive, elongated structural uplift known as the Colinton Complex Anticline.

  • Landscape Controls: The dramatic, jagged topography directly mirrors the underlying rock durability. The broad synclines create softer, rolling ridges, while the steeply dipping, highly disturbed strata of the anticline form the dominant, rugged hills framing the horizon between Moore and Harlin.
  • Entrenched Meanders: As you explore the nearby Brisbane River tributaries, the waterways cut sharply across the geological strike of the hills rather than following them—a sign of ancient, entrenched river meanders carving through rising rock over millions of years,
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Our Indian adventure – 23 day

Just when we thought there was nothing more India could do to surprise us, we experience an extraordinary day.

Starting with a walk through the old city of Amritsar. There are buildings that are hundreds of years old.

We visit the Golden Temple, formally known as Sri Harmandir Sahib (The Abode of God) or Darbar Sahib, is the holiest shrine in Sikhism and a world-renowned symbol of peace, equality, and spiritual devotion, it is truly is a moving experience, demonstrating generosity on an extraordinary scale.

The land which the temple was built was acquired by the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das, who completed the excavation of the holy pool (Amrit Sarovar) in 1577.

The fifth Guru, Guru Arjan Dev, designed the temple and invited a Muslim Sufi saint, Hazrat Mian Mir, to lay its foundation stone in 1588 to symbolize interfaith harmony. The first copy of the Sikh scripture, the Guru Granth Sahib, was here in 1604.

The Guru Granth Sahib is the central religious scripture of Sikhism, but for Sikhs, it is much more than just a book. It is regarded as the Eternal Living Guru, the final successor in a line of ten human Gurus. 

Originally a marble structure, the temple was repeatedly attacked by invaders. It was Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh Empire, who rebuilt it in the early 19th century and overlaid the upper floors with over 400kg of gold foil, giving it its iconic appearance.

The temple’s design is deeply symbolic, blending Indo-Islamic and Hindu architectural styles:

Unlike traditional temples with one entrance, the Golden Temple has doors on all four sides, signifying that people from every direction, religion, and walk of life are equally welcome.

The temple is situated below the ground level of the city, requiring visitors to walk down stairs to enter. This serves as a reminder to leave one’s ego behind and embrace humility.

Amrit Sarovar, the “Pool of Nectar” surrounding the temple is believed to have healing properties. A marble causeway connects the main sanctum to the surrounding pathway (Parkarma).

The temple operates one of the world’s largest free community kitchens, the Langar, serving a vegetarian meal to approximately 100,000 people daily, regardless of their background. Everyone sits on the floor together to emphasize equality.

Gurbani (hymns) are sung from the early morning hours until late at night, creating a serene and meditative atmosphere that can be heard throughout the complex.

Akal Takht located directly opposite the main entrance to the causeway, this building is the highest seat of temporal authority in Sikhism.

All visitors must cover their heads (scarves are provided for free at the entrance) and remove their shoes/socks at the designated stands.

We tour the dining, food preparation and cleaning areas all operated by volunteers from all stations of life.

The next stop is the “Hindu version” of the Golden Temple, Shri Durgiana Temple (also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple).   

It is located just a few kilometers away from the Golden Temple and is often called the “Silver Temple” because of its exquisitely carved silver doors.  

The Durgiana Temple was purposefully designed to mirror the architecture of the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib). Key similarities include:  

• The Sarovar: Like the Golden Temple, it is situated in the middle of a sacred lake (pool).  

• The Structure: It features a central gold-gilded dome and a marble bridge that leads to the main sanctum.  

• The Material: Both use extensive white marble and gold leafing on their upper structures.

It’s then lunch in a Punjab – western style restaurant.

The Shri Durgiana Templegh is our next stop, a must see memorial. It’s a historic garden and memorial, located just a short walk (about 400 meters) from the Golden Temple complex.  

It is the site of the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre (or the Amritsar Massacre), which took place on April 13, 1919.  

On the day of the Punjabi festival of Baisakhi, thousands of unarmed people—including men, women, and children—gathered in the garden to peacefully protest the Rowlatt Act and the arrest of two national leaders.  

Brigadier-General Reginald Dyer entered the area with his troops, blocked the only narrow exit, and ordered his soldiers to open fire on the trapped crowd without warning. They continued firing for about 10 minutes until they almost ran out of ammunition.  

The garden has been preserved as a memorial to those who lost their lives:  

You can still see white squares on the brick walls marking the spots where bullets hit during the firing.  

The Martyr’s Well, the area local people tried to escape the bullets, is where many people jumped into a large well inside the garden. It is now enclosed and serves as a sombre reminder of the tragedy.  

The Flame of Liberty: A large, flame shaped stone memorial at the center of the park dedicated to the martyrs.  

The Martyr’s Gallery: A museum and gallery on-site that displays artifacts and stories from the independence movement.  

The massacre was a major turning point in Indian history. It shattered the trust between the Indian public and British rulers, directly leading to:  

1. Mahatma Gandhi’s full-scale commitment to the Non-Cooperation Movement.  

2. Rabindranath Tagore renouncing his British Knighthood in protest.  

3. A massive surge in the movement for Purna Swaraj (complete independence).  

Once again it illustrates how oppressive governments fail themselves and the people.

We then apprehensively travel to the Pakistan Indian border for the Beating Retreat Ceremony is a daily military ritual practiced at the Attari-Wagah border, located between Amritsar (India) and Lahore (Pakistan). It is a unique blend of military precision, high-intensity performance, and patriotic fervor.  

The ceremony serves as a formal closing of the international border for the night. The border is permanently closed due to recent conflict. Its primary objective is the simultaneous lowering of the national flags of both India and Pakistan. It symbolizes both the rivalry and the cooperation required to manage the shared boundary.

The event is characterized by several distinct, highly choreographed maneuvers:

Soldiers from the Indian Border Security Force (BSF) and the Pakistan Rangers march toward the gate in a synchronized, aggressive style known as “goose-stepping,” where feet are kicked high above the head.  

Soldiers from both sides perform intense physical gestures—including chest-thumping and intense staring—to demonstrate strength and resolve.  Most of the time it seems to be in good mannered banter.

As the sun sets, the heavy iron gates at the border are swung open. The two flags are lowered at exactly the same speed. If one flag is lowered faster, it is considered a sign of disrespect.

For a brief moment, the flags are folded, and the soldiers often exchange a brisk, professional handshake (though this is sometimes skipped during periods of high diplomatic tension) before the gates are slammed shut, or like today, they never opened.

The ceremony has evolved into a massive tourist attraction, with stadium-style seating built on both sides of the border. The majority of the visitors are highly enthusiastic Indians.

The India Side is superior in noise and theatrics. Often features Bollywood music, women carrying the national flag, and chants of “Jai Hind” and “Vande Mataram.”  

The Pakistan Side is subdued in visitor numbers but their soldiers are enthusiastic. There is rhythmic drumming and chants of “Pakistan Zindabad.”

The “Master of Ceremonies”, on both sides, a designated officer acts as a hype-man, encouraging the crowd to cheer louder than the other side.  

Never have we seen such nationalistic pride. We do note that on one side of the border are farmers who are at peace, perusing their ripening crops, tending to stock and looking after their family. On the opposite side of the border the exact same daily life ritual is happening. Peace seems to be a universal state that all ordinary folk wish for.

Our final visit is to a local Punjab family for snacks, sharing with extended family who live in same street and broader family making up a good proportion of the village. A humble house by Australian standards, two bedrooms, bathroom, and tiny kitchen with gas cooker, tiny microwave and fridge. Family of four and mum. They are proud and happy, running their own business. We cook and eat together they have great humor and great aspirations for their children and hope for India. We talk about life for ordinary Indians, no filters applied here.

The night was short as it was an early start to catch the train to Delhi to finalize our journey in India. Quite a few hours at the airport but now about to board and leave for Singapore.

A narrow street of the old city.
Men cleaning

The majestic statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the legendary founder of the Sikh Empire.
Shri Durgiana Temple, Hindu version of Golden Temple

A very enthusiastic crowd

Good rifle skills by BSF

More great skills

Extraordinary marching

Enthusiastic crowd

Competition between sides


Khalsa College, Amritsar is of Indo-Saracenic architecture and prestigious educational institution in Punjab, India. Founded in 1892, it stands as a premier seat of learning and a symbol of the Sikh renaissance, blending academic excellence with a rich cultural heritage
Morning rising through the mist covering crops like a blanket
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