Marg and Simon

Just when we thought there was nothing more India could do to surprise us, we experience an extraordinary day.

Starting with a walk through the old city of Amritsar. There are buildings that are hundreds of years old.

We visit the Golden Temple, formally known as Sri Harmandir Sahib (The Abode of God) or Darbar Sahib, is the holiest shrine in Sikhism and a world-renowned symbol of peace, equality, and spiritual devotion, it is truly is a moving experience, demonstrating generosity on an extraordinary scale.

The land which the temple was built was acquired by the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das, who completed the excavation of the holy pool (Amrit Sarovar) in 1577.

The fifth Guru, Guru Arjan Dev, designed the temple and invited a Muslim Sufi saint, Hazrat Mian Mir, to lay its foundation stone in 1588 to symbolize interfaith harmony. The first copy of the Sikh scripture, the Guru Granth Sahib, was here in 1604.

The Guru Granth Sahib is the central religious scripture of Sikhism, but for Sikhs, it is much more than just a book. It is regarded as the Eternal Living Guru, the final successor in a line of ten human Gurus. 

Originally a marble structure, the temple was repeatedly attacked by invaders. It was Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh Empire, who rebuilt it in the early 19th century and overlaid the upper floors with over 400kg of gold foil, giving it its iconic appearance.

The temple’s design is deeply symbolic, blending Indo-Islamic and Hindu architectural styles:

Unlike traditional temples with one entrance, the Golden Temple has doors on all four sides, signifying that people from every direction, religion, and walk of life are equally welcome.

The temple is situated below the ground level of the city, requiring visitors to walk down stairs to enter. This serves as a reminder to leave one’s ego behind and embrace humility.

Amrit Sarovar, the “Pool of Nectar” surrounding the temple is believed to have healing properties. A marble causeway connects the main sanctum to the surrounding pathway (Parkarma).

The temple operates one of the world’s largest free community kitchens, the Langar, serving a vegetarian meal to approximately 100,000 people daily, regardless of their background. Everyone sits on the floor together to emphasize equality.

Gurbani (hymns) are sung from the early morning hours until late at night, creating a serene and meditative atmosphere that can be heard throughout the complex.

Akal Takht located directly opposite the main entrance to the causeway, this building is the highest seat of temporal authority in Sikhism.

All visitors must cover their heads (scarves are provided for free at the entrance) and remove their shoes/socks at the designated stands.

We tour the dining, food preparation and cleaning areas all operated by volunteers from all stations of life.

The next stop is the “Hindu version” of the Golden Temple, Shri Durgiana Temple (also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple).   

It is located just a few kilometers away from the Golden Temple and is often called the “Silver Temple” because of its exquisitely carved silver doors.  

The Durgiana Temple was purposefully designed to mirror the architecture of the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib). Key similarities include:  

• The Sarovar: Like the Golden Temple, it is situated in the middle of a sacred lake (pool).  

• The Structure: It features a central gold-gilded dome and a marble bridge that leads to the main sanctum.  

• The Material: Both use extensive white marble and gold leafing on their upper structures.

It’s then lunch in a Punjab – western style restaurant.

The Shri Durgiana Templegh is our next stop, a must see memorial. It’s a historic garden and memorial, located just a short walk (about 400 meters) from the Golden Temple complex.  

It is the site of the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre (or the Amritsar Massacre), which took place on April 13, 1919.  

On the day of the Punjabi festival of Baisakhi, thousands of unarmed people—including men, women, and children—gathered in the garden to peacefully protest the Rowlatt Act and the arrest of two national leaders.  

Brigadier-General Reginald Dyer entered the area with his troops, blocked the only narrow exit, and ordered his soldiers to open fire on the trapped crowd without warning. They continued firing for about 10 minutes until they almost ran out of ammunition.  

The garden has been preserved as a memorial to those who lost their lives:  

You can still see white squares on the brick walls marking the spots where bullets hit during the firing.  

The Martyr’s Well, the area local people tried to escape the bullets, is where many people jumped into a large well inside the garden. It is now enclosed and serves as a sombre reminder of the tragedy.  

The Flame of Liberty: A large, flame shaped stone memorial at the center of the park dedicated to the martyrs.  

The Martyr’s Gallery: A museum and gallery on-site that displays artifacts and stories from the independence movement.  

The massacre was a major turning point in Indian history. It shattered the trust between the Indian public and British rulers, directly leading to:  

1. Mahatma Gandhi’s full-scale commitment to the Non-Cooperation Movement.  

2. Rabindranath Tagore renouncing his British Knighthood in protest.  

3. A massive surge in the movement for Purna Swaraj (complete independence).  

Once again it illustrates how oppressive governments fail themselves and the people.

We then apprehensively travel to the Pakistan Indian border for the Beating Retreat Ceremony is a daily military ritual practiced at the Attari-Wagah border, located between Amritsar (India) and Lahore (Pakistan). It is a unique blend of military precision, high-intensity performance, and patriotic fervor.  

The ceremony serves as a formal closing of the international border for the night. The border is permanently closed due to recent conflict. Its primary objective is the simultaneous lowering of the national flags of both India and Pakistan. It symbolizes both the rivalry and the cooperation required to manage the shared boundary.

The event is characterized by several distinct, highly choreographed maneuvers:

Soldiers from the Indian Border Security Force (BSF) and the Pakistan Rangers march toward the gate in a synchronized, aggressive style known as “goose-stepping,” where feet are kicked high above the head.  

Soldiers from both sides perform intense physical gestures—including chest-thumping and intense staring—to demonstrate strength and resolve.  Most of the time it seems to be in good mannered banter.

As the sun sets, the heavy iron gates at the border are swung open. The two flags are lowered at exactly the same speed. If one flag is lowered faster, it is considered a sign of disrespect.

For a brief moment, the flags are folded, and the soldiers often exchange a brisk, professional handshake (though this is sometimes skipped during periods of high diplomatic tension) before the gates are slammed shut, or like today, they never opened.

The ceremony has evolved into a massive tourist attraction, with stadium-style seating built on both sides of the border. The majority of the visitors are highly enthusiastic Indians.

The India Side is superior in noise and theatrics. Often features Bollywood music, women carrying the national flag, and chants of “Jai Hind” and “Vande Mataram.”  

The Pakistan Side is subdued in visitor numbers but their soldiers are enthusiastic. There is rhythmic drumming and chants of “Pakistan Zindabad.”

The “Master of Ceremonies”, on both sides, a designated officer acts as a hype-man, encouraging the crowd to cheer louder than the other side.  

Never have we seen such nationalistic pride. We do note that on one side of the border are farmers who are at peace, perusing their ripening crops, tending to stock and looking after their family. On the opposite side of the border the exact same daily life ritual is happening. Peace seems to be a universal state that all ordinary folk wish for.

Our final visit is to a local Punjab family for snacks, sharing with extended family who live in same street and broader family making up a good proportion of the village. A humble house by Australian standards, two bedrooms, bathroom, and tiny kitchen with gas cooker, tiny microwave and fridge. Family of four and mum. They are proud and happy, running their own business. We cook and eat together they have great humor and great aspirations for their children and hope for India. We talk about life for ordinary Indians, no filters applied here.

The night was short as it was an early start to catch the train to Delhi to finalize our journey in India. Quite a few hours at the airport but now about to board and leave for Singapore.

A very enthusiastic crowd

Good rifle skills by BSF

More great skills

Extraordinary marching

Enthusiastic crowd

Competition between sides

We enjoy another wonderful breakfast with a breathtaking view at the Cecil Oberoi.

Then a drive up to the “Monkey God Temple“, in Shimla is officially known as the Jakhoo Temple (or Jakhu Temple). Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, it is one of the most iconic landmarks in the city, famous for its massive statue and its large population of resident monkeys.

The temple is steeped in legends from the Ramayana:

The Sanjeevani Quest: It is believed that Lord Hanuman stopped at this hill while flying to the Himalayas to find the Sanjeevani herb to revive Lakshmana.

Legend says that the hill was originally much taller, but it flattened under the immense weight of Hanuman when he landed to seek guidance from a sage named Yaaku.

The name “Jakhu” is said to be derived from the sage Yaaku. The temple is considered ancient, with some local traditions suggesting a place of worship has existed there for millennia.

Tallest Hanuman Statue: The most striking feature is a bright orange 108-foot (33-meter) statue of Lord Hanuman. Unveiled in 2010, it is one of the tallest of its kind in the world and is visible from almost anywhere in Shimla.

Located at the highest point in Shimla: The temple sits atop Jakhoo Hill at an altitude of approximately 2,455 meters (8,054 feet), providing panoramic views of the Shivalik mountain ranges and the town below.

• Sacred Footprints: Inside the temple complex, there are stone structures believed to be the footprints of Lord Hanuman.

The temple is famous (and sometimes notorious) for its hundreds of Rhesus macaques:

Devotees consider the monkeys to be the descendants or “vanara sena” (monkey army) of Lord Hanuman.

Visitors are often warned to be careful with their belongings. The monkeys are known for snatching glasses, sunglasses, cameras, and food. They often “hold items hostage” until they are offered food in exchange. We had first hand experience as a monkey out of nowhere snatched Marg’s glasses from her head, but thanks to the quick action of our guide, Ricky, a treat was offered as payment for return of the glasses.

We could see the snow capped peaks of the beginning of the Himalayas, it was a beautiful sight, could easily bring a tear to one’s eye.

A trip from the temple down into the Main Street in the chairlift is a must, and gave us a breathtaking view of the city.

We continue to see many birds and Ricky our guide has helped us to identify many of them. The most impressive was the Himalayan Griffon Vulture, Gyps himalayensis often seen soaring above the hills of Shimla. It is the largest and heaviest bird found in the Himalayas. It boasts a massive wingspan of up to 3 meters (nearly 10 feet) and can weigh between 8 to 12 kg.

They have a distinctive pale, khaki-colored body, dark wing feathers, and a white “ruff” of feathers around the base of their neck. Their heads are nearly bald, an evolutionary trait that helps keep them clean while feeding.

Because of their weight, they rarely flap their wings. Instead, they rely on rising warm air (thermals) to glide effortlessly for hours, often seen as small “V” shapes high above the Shimla Ridge.

Historically, these vultures were attracted to the area because of the high activity and occasional food waste. However, their primary role is ecological; they are “nature’s clean-up crew,” feeding on carcasses of animals in the surrounding valleys.

They are known to nest on the steep, inaccessible rocky cliffs surrounding the Shimla hills. In fact, Shimla is one of the districts in Himachal Pradesh where their population has remained relatively stable.

Like many vulture species in India, they were affected by the “vulture crisis” caused by the drug Diclofenac (used in livestock), though they were less severely impacted than lowland species. Recent sightings in 2025 and 2026 across Himachal Pradesh suggest a positive comeback for the species, with many birdwatchers now visiting Shimla specifically to photograph them from the Jakhoo Hill vantage point.

As we drive out of Shimla we are seeing that education and caring for the environment is important. There is an active campaign to keep Shimla clean and this is very obvious, due to the lack of rubbish compared to other areas in India we have visited. It is not fantastic yet but it is an improvement.

We pass many schools and research facilities, they even have a potato research centre and a Leopard hospital.

The Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre, Tutikandi is the primary facility for leopards in Shimla and is the Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre at Tutikandi.  

It is managed by the Wildlife Wing of the Himachal Pradesh Forest Department. It specifically takes in leopards that have strayed into human settlements, been injured, or were orphaned (such as the rescue of a young cub from the Chakkar area near the district courts).

The centre currently houses several leopards. For example, recent reports noted that a male and female leopard were even transferred from here to Ludhiana Zoo for better long-term housing after they recovered from their injuries.  

Unlike a standard zoo, this is a rescue facility. It is primarily designed for the medical care and safety of the animals rather than public exhibition. Visitors are generally not encouraged as the goal is often rehabilitation or providing a stress-free environment for animals that cannot be released back into the wild.

We read a news article today that a leopard was seen in the city of Chandigarh. Ricky produced a photo he took while on one of his tours. It’s just amazing that these large animals are found amongst local human communities.

Sadly we have to leave Shimla today and catch a train from Chandigahr to Amaritsar. We will be coming back to Shimla one day.

We normally don’t critique or advertise our guides but Ricky was exceptional. For anyone interested in a Himalayan experience he would be worth considering. He showed us around Shimla in a thoughtful and informative manner. When things went a bit wrong, like a glitch with the you train and couple hour delay he was seamlessly able to reorganise our schedule to facilitate every event. With his advice we dined in local restaurants and cafes with locals where we enjoyed great food and friendly service. As he is a local we learnt about the indigenous plants and their uses, his knowledge about wildlife and landscapes was fantastic. When travelling in India all manner of quirky challenges can arise, whether it be cheeky monkeys or unexpected train ticket seating issues Ricky’s cool head and knowledge saw us through with no issues.

If anyone is interested in a Himalayan experience he would be a good person to trust.

Ravi Sharma(Ricky)

Ravialpineclutch@gmail.com

alpineclutchadventures.com

We are continued to be treated well by the locals, they have kindly accommodated our lack of knowledge about how India works, the train conductor was very kind in his handling of our seating complication and went to great effort to ensure we were comfortable. There was a mum and little girl on the train that wanted their picture taken with us, the people are extraordinarily friendly if you engage them and they get very excited when you try out a bit of Hindi dialogue.

We are cruising quietly at 109kmh on our train taking in the views of the Punjab.

We enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Oberoi Cecil, an outstanding hotel with equally outstanding views.

We board the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train at Shimla for a rail ride through the hills. The Toy Train is more than just a commute; it is a slow-motion journey through history, engineering, and the stunning landscape of the Himalayas. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, it remains one of the most scenic narrow-gauge mountain railways in the world.

Built between 1898 and 1903 to connect Shimla (the former summer capital of British India) to the Indian rail network, the line is a masterpiece of colonial-era engineering.

After departing from the train we have lunch, perched on a cliff overlooking Shimla, a beautiful sight.

It’s then a tour of the old English viceroy residence in Shimla, known as the Viceregal Lodge (and now as Rashtrapati Niwas), is one of the most historically and architecturally significant colonial buildings in India.

Built between 1880 and 1888 during the tenure of Lord Dufferin, it was designed by British architect Henry Irwin (who also designed the Mysore Palace).

It served as the official summer residence of the British Viceroy of India. Because Shimla was the summer capital, the entire British administration would relocate here from Calcutta (and later Delhi) to escape the heat.

The building was the site of several pivotal moments in world history, including the Simla Conference of 1945. It was within these walls that the final discussions for India’s independence and the Partition of India took place.

After independence, it briefly served as a summer retreat for the President of India, whose new estate is nearby. In 1965, it was handed over to the Indian Institute of Advanced Study (IIAS), which remains its current occupant.

While there is no constitutional “requirement” that mandates the President must stay at these estates for a specific number of days, long-standing tradition and official protocol dictate that the President makes annual visits to their residences to fulfill symbolic and administrative duties. Like the other estates the president will engage local residents at their residence.

The lodge is famous for its “Jacobethan” style—a mix of English Renaissance and Scottish Baronial styles—designed to remind the British of home.

It was constructed using local light blue-grey sandstone and limestone, but the interiors feature lavish woodwork made from Burmese teak, walnut, and cedar.

For its time, it was incredibly high-tech. It was the first building in Shimla to have electric lighting (installed in 1888) and featured a sophisticated firefighting system with wax-coated water pipes that would melt and release water in the event of a fire.

Originally spanning 331 acres (now about 110), the estate is famous for its manicured lawns and botanical gardens, which were meticulously planned by successive Viceroys. The buildings key features are.

• The Entrance Hall: A massive, wood-paneled hall with a grand staircase.

• The Partition Table: You can see the actual table around which the maps were drawn and the decisions for the Partition of India and Pakistan were finalized.

• The Library: What used to be the ballroom is now one of the most beautiful libraries in India, housing thousands of rare books and manuscripts for the institute’s scholars.

Then we walk the Main Street of Shimla, learning about tree and bird species. The most notable is the red-flowering rhododendrons, locally known as Buransh, are the botanical soul of Shimla. While there are several species in the region, the vibrant red ones (Rhododendron arboreum) are the most iconic, turning the mountain slopes into a “flaming forest” every spring.

These are evergreen trees that can grow up to 12 meters (approx. 40 feet) tall. They have dark green, leathery leaves with a silvery or cinnamon-colored coating on the underside.

While the deep crimson/scarlet is the most common at Shimla’s altitude (roughly 2,000m), you can find pink or white varieties if you climb to higher elevations like Kufri or Narkanda.

Out final stop is at the Christ Church, located prominently on The Ridge, is one of Shimla’s most enduring landmarks. As the second oldest church in Northern India (after St. John’s in Meerut), its yellow silhouette is synonymous with the city’s skyline.

Built to serve the growing British Anglican community, the cornerstone was laid in 1844, and the church was consecrated in 1857.

Its location was chosen so that it could be seen from miles away, symbolizing the presence and permanence of the British Empire in its summer capital.

It has survived over 160 years of Himalayan weather, including heavy snowfalls and seismic activity, largely due to its sturdy stone and lime mortar construction.

The church is a prime example of Neo-Gothic architecture, designed to mimic the parish churches of the English countryside. The stunning stained glass windows of the Christ Church were designed by John Lockwood Kipling, the father of the famous author Rudyard Kipling.

Today we leave our travelling companions and with a guide we negotiate the chaotic comings and goings of people through Delhi train station. Even though there are many platforms and thousands of people moving through the station the general population of Indian people seem at peace with these circumstances.

We board our train and head north through rural landscapes and small villages, we note mixed paddocks of wheat, sugar cane, flowers, fruit trees and vegetables. There are even agroforestry plots of eucalypts. When we reach Chandigarh we are met and taken by vehicle up what seem like vertical hills to Shimla. These are the foot hills of the Himalayas.

Our home for two nights is the Oberoi Cecil, a beautiful setting and building with helpful and wonderful staff, we feel like royalty here.

The Himalayan cedar, Deodar, are majestic, known as the “Tree of the Gods,” this is the dominant species and the state tree of Himachal Pradesh. It thrives on north-facing slopes and is prized for its majestic, horizontal branches and durable wood. It is such a contrast between Australia and India, trees can’t be harmed here even if they are weedy species like the American Redwood. In Australia farmers and urban developers have chiefly poorly managed the Australian landscape with impunity, Australia leads the world in native vegetation clearance, soil and biodiversity degradation is not much better, I wonder which is the more advanced civilization.

We take a short walk and then head down to the centre of town. Shimla seems to be entirely built on the side of an extremely steep mountain. Local residents here are fit and lean. The night life is abuzz with shop keepers selling their wares and dining venues of many and varied culinary styles.

Today we tour old and New Delhi, both are a hub of activity, one modern green and new the other old, historic, wafting smells of spices and humanity and green, both can overwhelm the senses – sensory overload is a common theme expressed by tourists. Despite the challenges locals face, people here never show or convey a cross word in public. They show abundant resilience and always provide a delightful smile when we engage them in our limited Hindi, which by the way we have a useful and growing vocabulary.

First stop is the “great mosque” in Delhi is the Jama Masjid (historically known as Masjid-i-Jahan Numa, or the “World-Reflecting Mosque”).  

While often associated with New Delhi, it is technically located in the heart of Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad), standing directly across from the Red Fort. It is widely considered one of the largest and most impressive mosques in India.  

It’s architectural Legacy: It was the final architectural masterpiece commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the same visionary behind the Taj Mahal.  

The mosque’s massive courtyard can hold up to 25,000 worshippers at a single time.  

Built primarily from red sandstone and white marble, it features three grand gates, four towers, and two 40-meter-high minarets.  

The mosque houses several sacred relics, including a hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad and a Quran written on deer skin.

After the mosque, it is onto Ricshaws and a tour of the back streets of Old Delhi. Narrow streets, all manner of goods being sold and wiring that would leave any sparky scratching their head. That said the current configuration has not caused any fires to date.

Then we visit the India Gate, with thousands of school children who are also in attendance. We are greeted by the masses with smiles, waving and hellos in good English they clearly happy to meet us and chat and very proud of their India.

The India Gate was originally called the All India War Memorial, is one of New Delhi’s most iconic landmarks. Standing at the eastern end of the ceremonial axis of Kartavya Path (formerly Rajpath), it serves as a powerful symbol of sacrifice and national pride.

It is a Tribute to Soldiers and was built to honor the 70,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 during the First World War and the Third Anglo-Afghan War.

The walls of the gate are inscribed with the names of over 13,000 soldiers who perished during these conflicts.

It was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the lead architect of New Delhi, and was inaugurated in 1931.

Its design is often compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and the Gateway of India in Mumbai.

The structure stands 42 meters high and is built primarily of red and yellow sandstone.

Located under the arch, the “Flame of the Immortal Soldier” was added in 1972 to honor Indian soldiers killed in the 1971 Indo-Pak War. While the primary flame was merged with the National War Memorial flame in 2022, the site remains a focal point for remembrance.

A short distance behind the gate stands a 73-foot cupola that once housed a statue of King George V; it now features a 28-foot-tall black granite statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose.

To date we have travelled 3,460 km most of that in just one state, Rajasthan, to finish the first leg of our Indian adventure. We have time to wander the markets and buy gifts for family and goods for the next day, which involves a train ride and a stay in the foot hills of the Himalayas. Travelling to Shimla in the state of Himachal Pradesh, it is the capital and largest city of Himachal Pradesh. Historically, it was famous as the “Summer Capital” of British India.

Then on to, Amritsar in the state of Punjab, it is the spiritual and cultural center of the Sikh religion and home to the famous Harmandir Sahib (the Golden Temple).

We have made our way back to Delhi, stopping at the Qutub Minar.  

Standing at 72.5 meters (238 feet), it is the world’s tallest brick minaret and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s located in the Mehrauli area of South Delhi and serves as a primary example of early Indo-Islamic architecture.  

Construction: Started in 1192 CE by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first Sultan of Delhi. It was later expanded by his successors, Iltutmish and Firoz Shah Tughlaq.  

The tower has five distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, while the top two floors feature a mix of marble and sandstone.  

The Iron Pillar: Right next to the minaret in the same complex stands an ancient 7-meter-high iron pillar that is over 1,600 years old and is famous for its incredible resistance to rust.  

The “Unfinished” Rival: Nearby, is the Alai Minar, a massive stone base. Sultan Alauddin Khilji intended for it to be twice as tall as the Qutub Minar, but construction stopped after his death when it was only about 12 meters high. 

We also have a quick look at the Lotus Temple which is a Bahá’í House of Worship located in New Delhi, renowned for its striking flower-like shape and inclusive atmosphere. Since its completion in 1986, it has become one of the most visited buildings in the world, serving as a symbol of peace and unity.

Designed by Iranian architect Fariborz Sahba, the structure is composed of 27 free-standing marble-clad “petals” arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides.

• The Interior: Inside the central hall, which can seat up to 2,500 people, there are no idols, religious pictures, or altars. The focus is entirely on silent prayer and meditation, regardless of one’s personal beliefs.

• Symbolism and Purpose: True to the Bahá’í faith’s tenets, the temple is open to people of all religions. The lotus flower was chosen as the central design element because it is a symbol common to Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Islam.

It was the first temple in Delhi to use solar energy, highlighting a commitment to environmental harmony alongside its spiritual mission.