Marg and Simon

Today we visit the Taj Mahal, an artist workshop who excel in marble inlay and then enjoy a wonderful live Bollywood show that tells of the love story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal , which culminated in the building of the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is more than just a masterpiece of Mughal architecture; it is often described as “a teardrop on the cheek of time,” serving as a monumental tribute to a profound love story.

The story begins in 1607, when the young Prince Khurram (the future Emperor Shah Jahan) met Arjumand Banu Begum at a marketplace. It was reportedly love at first sight.

• The Marriage: They married five years later in 1612. Upon their marriage, he gave her the title Mumtaz Mahal, meaning “the Exalted One of the Palace.”

• An Inseparable Bond: Unlike many royal marriages of the era, theirs was a true partnership. Mumtaz was his trusted confidante and traveled with him even on military campaigns.

• The Tragedy: In 1631, while giving birth to their 14th child in Burhanpur, Mumtaz Mahal passed away due to complications.

• The Vow: Legend says that on her deathbed, she asked the Emperor to build a monument that would symbolize their love. Devastated by her death, Shah Jahan reportedly went into secluded mourning for a year, emerging with white hair and a bent back, dedicated to fulfilling her wish.

Construction began in 1632 and employed roughly 20,000 artisans over 22 years.

• The Material: It is crafted from translucent white marble, which famously changes color depending on the light—appearing pinkish in the morning, milky white in the day, and golden under the moonlight.

• The Inlay (Pietra Dura): The walls are decorated with intricate floral patterns made from semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, jade, and crystal, fitted so precisely into the marble that the joints are nearly invisible.

• The Garden: The Charbagh (four-part garden) represents the Islamic concept of Paradise, featuring reflecting pools that create a perfect mirror image of the mausoleum.

It’s an early start and with a drive along the boundary of the park before heading north-north east to Agra.

We drive past many miles of family farms, wheat is ripening and locals are in the field harvesting. As we approach Agra we note many tall stacks, brick kilns.

We visited Fatehpur Sikri, located about 37 km from Agra, it is a magnificent 16th-century “ghost city” and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, it served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585 before being abandoned, primarily due to a shortage of water.

The city was founded to honor the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who lived in the village of Sikri and correctly prophesied the birth of Akbar’s heir (the future Emperor Jahangir). After his victory in the Gujarat campaign, Akbar named the city Fatehpur Sikri (City of Victory).

The complex is a masterpiece of red sandstone, showcasing a unique “Akbari” style that blends Islamic, Hindu, and Jain architectural elements. Key structures include:

• Buland Darwaza: The “Gate of Magnificence,” standing at 54 meters, is one of the tallest gateways in the world. It was built to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat.

• Jama Masjid: One of the largest mosques in India, its design incorporates Persian and Indian motifs.

• Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti: A stunning white marble structure located within the mosque’s courtyard, famous for its intricate marble lattice (jali) screens.

• Panch Mahal: A unique five-story columnar pavilion that decreases in size as it ascends. It was likely used by the royal ladies for relaxation and to enjoy the breeze.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Known for its central carved pillar with a circular platform where Akbar would sit and conduct religious and philosophical discussions.

• Jodha Bai’s Palace: The largest residential complex in the city, reflecting strong Rajasthani and Gujarati architectural influences.

Then it’s off to the Agra Fort. From here we can see the Taj Mahal. The fort is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is one of the most significant Mughal monuments in India. Often overshadowed by its neighbour, the Taj Mahal, this massive red sandstone fortress was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638.

Originally a brick fort known as Badalgarh, it was captured by Akbar the Great, who rebuilt it with red sandstone from Rajasthan. While Akbar built the primary structure, his grandson Shah Jahan (the builder of the Taj Mahal) added the white marble palaces. The fort is also famously where Shah Jahan was later imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, spending his final days gazing at the Taj Mahal from a balcony.

The fort is more accurately described as a walled city. It is shaped like a semicircle, with its straight edge parallel to the Yamuna River.

• The Walls: The fort is enclosed by double 21-meter high walls of red sandstone, punctuated by four massive gates.

• Delhi Gate & Amar Singh Gate: The Delhi Gate is the most grand, though the Amar Singh Gate is the one currently used by tourists.

The interior contains a labyrinth of buildings that transition from the rugged red stone of Akbar’s era to the refined white marble of Shah Jahan’s reign:

• Jahangiri Mahal: The largest residential palace in the fort, built by Akbar for his son Jahangir. It features impressive stone carvings and a massive stone bowl (hauz) used for bathing.

• Khas Mahal: A beautiful white marble palace overlooking the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden), designed as the emperor’s sleeping chamber.

• Musamman Burj: An octagonal tower with a clear view of the Taj Mahal. This is where Shah Jahan was held under house arrest for eight years until his death.

• Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience): A flat-roofed assembly hall where the emperor heard the grievances of the common people.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Used for receiving kings and dignitaries; it once housed the legendary Peacock Throne before it was moved to Delhi.

• Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque): A pristine white marble mosque known for its architectural symmetry.

Both buildings are beautiful unfortunately the Fatehpur Sikri was stripped by locals when palace dwellers moved. The fort was stripped of its fineries by the British.

Tomorrow we visit the Taj Mahal.

We saw tigers!

What an amazing place, exotic landscapes and wildlife.

Ranthambore is most famous for its Bengal Tigers, which are known for being active during the day, making them easier to spot than in many other reserves.

Beyond tigers, the park hosts leopards, sloth bears, striped hyenas, mongoose and jackals. The herbivore population includes Sambar deer (India’s largest deer), Chital (spotted deer), Nilgai (blue bull), and Wild Boar.

The park’s lakes are home to Marsh Crocodiles (Muggers) and various snakes like the Indian Python and North Indian Flap-shelled Turtle.

With over 320 species, it is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Common sightings include the Crested Serpent Eagle, Painted Stork, and the Indian Peafowl.

🪨 Unique Geology

The park’s landscape is defined by the confluence of two major mountain systems: the Aravalli and the Vindhya ranges.

The Great Boundary Fault: This major geological fault line runs through the park, creating a dramatic landscape where the sharp, jagged ridges of the Aravallis meet the flat-topped plateaus (locally called “Dangs”) of the Vindhyas.

The park is bounded by the Banas River to the north and the Chambal River to the south. Three main lakes—Padam Talao, Malik Talao, and Raj Bagh—act as vital watering holes for the wildlife.

The vegetation is primarily dry deciduous forest, dominated by the Dhok tree (Anogeissus pendula), which can survive extreme droughts and turns the hills a beautiful reddish-brown during the dry season.

🏰 Historic Buildings

Unlike most national parks, Ranthambore is dotted with ancient ruins that provide a regal backdrop to the wilderness.

• Ranthambore Fort: A UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 10th century. It sits atop a hill 700 feet above the plain, featuring massive gates, stepped wells, and ancient temples.

• Trinetra Ganesh Temple: Located inside the fort, this is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Rajasthan. It is unique for housing an idol of Lord Ganesha with three eyes.

• Jogi Mahal: A red sandstone hunting lodge situated on the banks of Padam Talao. It once served as a royal guest house for the Jaipur royal family and features one of India’s largest banyan trees nearby.

• Raj Bagh Ruins: Situated between Padam Talao and Raj Bagh Lake, these stone arches and broken walls are remnants of old palaces where tigers are frequently seen lounging.

Morning session.

Afternoon session

We explore the Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, it is a monumental 18th-century astronomical observatory and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the largest and best-preserved of the five observatories built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II across India between 1724 and 1735.

The site is essentially a collection of 19 massive architectural instruments designed to observe the heavens with the naked eye.

The name is derived from the Sanskrit words Yantra (instrument) and Mantra (calculation/formula), it literally means “instruments for calculation.”

The Founder: Jai Singh II was not just a king but a brilliant mathematician and astronomer. He found existing astronomical tables inaccurate and built these stone structures to provide more precise data.

Completed in 1734, the site represents the pinnacle of medieval Indian astronomy, blending social, religious, and scientific practices.

The “buildings” at Jantar Mantar are actually specialized scientific tools. Here are the most famous ones:

• Vrihat Samrat Yantra: The world’s largest stone sundial, standing 27 meters high. It can measure local time to an accuracy of 2 seconds.

• Jai Prakash Yantra: Two sunken hemispherical bowls that map the sky. An observer can walk inside them to track the coordinates of stars and planets.

• Ram Yantra: Used to measure the altitude and azimuth of celestial bodies.

• Misra Yantra: A unique instrument capable of telling when it is noon in various cities around the world.

The observatory was built using local stone and marble because Jai Singh II believed that metal instruments were prone to wear and tear and would lose their accuracy over time.

Next we walk across the road to the City Palace it is a magnificent complex that serves as a living museum and the historical seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Established by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in 1727, the palace is renowned for its seamless fusion of Rajput, Mughal, and European architectural styles, featuring a series of expansive courtyards, manicured gardens, and ornate buildings.

• Pritam Niwas Chowk: This inner courtyard is famous for its four small “Seasonal Gates,” each dedicated to a Hindu god and decorated with intricate motifs representing the four seasons, such as the stunning Peacock Gate representing autumn.

• Mubarak Mahal: Originally built as a reception center for visiting dignitaries, this “Welcome Palace” now houses a textile museum showcasing royal costumes, Kashmiri shawls, and delicate silk saris.

• Chandra Mahal: The most commanding structure in the complex, this seven-story building is still the residence of the royal family. While the upper floors are private, visitors can explore the ground floor which contains a museum of royal artifacts.

• Diwan-i-Khas: This marble-paved gallery is home to two massive silver vessels known as Gangajalis. These are officially recorded in the Guinness World Records as the largest sterling silver vessels in the world.

After lunch we make our way to the Ranthambore National Park, located in the Sawai Madhopur district of Rajasthan, it is one of India’s most iconic and celebrated wildlife reserves. Once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur, it is now a cornerstone of the Project Tiger initiative and a UNESCO-recognized landscape where history and nature intersect.

The park’s unique charm lies in its “living ruins.” Ancient structures, including the massive 10th-century Ranthambore Fort that towers over the forest, and others are scattered throughout the wilderness.

The park is situated at the junction of the Aravalli and Vindhya hill ranges, featuring a dramatic landscape of deep gorges, rugged hills, dry deciduous forests, and large lakes like Padam Talao.

Within the forest, you will find stone chhatris (cenotaphs), abandoned palaces, and the Trinetra Ganesha Temple, which is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Rajasthan.

We will be exploring the park tomorrow.

We are in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Here we visit the Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of Winds,” is the most iconic landmark in Jaipur’s “Pink City.” Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh and designed by architect Lal Chand Ustad, it is a five-story pyramidal structure made of red and pink sandstone that stands as a masterpiece of Rajput and Mughal fusion architecture.

The palace was originally designed as an extension of the City Palace’s zenana (women’s chambers). Its primary cultural purpose was to allow royal women, who observed the strict purdah system of remaining unseen by the public, to watch street festivals, royal processions, and daily life in the Johari Bazaar below without being observed themselves.

Next stop is the Amer (or Amber) Fort, often referred to as the Amber City, it was the historic capital of the Kachwaha Rajputs before the founding of Jaipur in 1727.

Amer: This is the official name of the town and the fort. It is derived from Ambikeshwar, a name for Lord Shiva, or possibly Amba, the Mother Goddess Durga.  

Amber: This is the anglicized version of the name, which became popular during the British colonial era. It likely gained traction because the golden-yellow sandstone of the fort resembles the color of amber.

Located about 11 kilometers from the modern city, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of India’s most magnificent examples of hill-top fortresses.

The city is essentially a sprawling complex of massive fortifications, paved paths, and the iconic Amber Palace, all reflected in the still waters of Maota Lake.

Ancient Origins: The area was originally settled by the Meena tribe. The present-day fort was commissioned in 1592 by Raja Man Singh I, a trusted general of Mughal Emperor Akbar.

Growth: Over the next 150 years, successive rulers added their own palaces and courtyards, creating a seamless blend of Rajput military architecture and Mughal decorative art.

The fort is built from yellow and pink sandstone and white marble, organized into four distinct sections, each with its own courtyard:

Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors): This is the fort’s crown jewel. Its walls and ceilings are entirely covered in thousands of tiny mirrors and colored glass. It was famously designed so that the light from a single candle would illuminate the entire hall like a star-filled sky.

Ganesh Pol: This massive, ornate gateway serves as the entrance to the Maharaja’s private palaces. It is renowned for its beautiful frescoes and intricate mosaic work.

Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure): An early example of “air conditioning,” this room features a system where cool water flowed through marble channels, creating a breeze to combat the desert heat.

Magic Flower Fresco: A famous carving on a marble pillar that depicts seven different designs (a lotus, a cobra, an elephant trunk, etc.) depending on how you partially cover the image with your hands.

Secret Tunnel: A 2-kilometer subterranean tunnel connects Amber Fort to the nearby Jaigarh Fort. This was designed as an escape route for the royal family during times of siege.

Kesar Kyari (Saffron Garden): Situated in the middle of Maota Lake, this star-shaped garden was originally intended for growing saffron, though the climate now makes that a challenge.

After the fort we attended a Holi festival and was covered with bright colored powder, these vibrant powders (known as Gulal) are much more than just a messy celebration—they carry deep symbolic weight that blends mythology, seasonal changes, and social commentary.  

Historically, these powders were made from medicinal herbs like neem, turmeric, and dried flower petals (like Palash), which were thought to help prevent the fevers and colds common during the change of seasons from winter to spring.

The most profound meaning of the powder is its role as a social equalizer. In traditional Indian society, strict barriers often existed between different castes, religions, and economic classes.  

When everyone is covered in layers of bright pink, green, and blue, individual identities disappear.  

For one day, there is no “rich” or “poor,” only a sea of color. It represents the idea that, at our core, we are all the same.

After the festival we visit a jewelry workshop. Jaipur is recognized worldwide for its jewelry. We took time to visit the markets, dinner and traditional dances followed by a drive past the Prince Albert museum another beautiful building and but simply stunning in the night lights.

It’s Holi Day. Holi is a major Hindu festival celebrated as the Festival of Colours,  Love  and Spring. It celebrates the eternal and divine love of the deities Radha and Krishna.  Additionally, the day signifies the triumph of good over evil, as it commemorates the victory of  Vishnu  as  Narasimha  over Hiranyakashipu

It’s a quieter day today, as most monuments and businesses are closed for Holi Day, it’s a chance to rest. Our start is a little later and we have time to wander about the hotel gardens which are beautiful and extensive.

We visit a textile workshop which demonstrates unique block printing and carpet marking. Jaipur, the “Pink City” of Rajasthan, is one of the world’s premier hubs for hand-knotted rugs. The craft is a blend of ancient Persian techniques and indigenous Indian artistry, evolved over centuries into a massive cottage industry that supports thousands of rural artisans. The art of carpet weaving was introduced to India in the 16th century by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, who brought Persian weavers to his court. While initially centered in Agra and Delhi, the craft eventually flourished in Jaipur due to royal patronage from the Rajput kings. Over time, the “Jaipuri” style emerged, characterized by a transition from traditional Persian motifs to more vibrant, Rajasthani-inspired aesthetics.

Hand-Knotting: Using a vertical loom, artisans tie individual knots onto the warp threads. The density of these knots—measured in Knots Per Square Inch (KPSI)—determines the rug’s quality and intricacy. A high-end Jaipur rug can have hundreds of knots per square inch.

They can be made from camel hair, Kashmir, cotton and silk.

Our journey continues, travelling through forested hills, farmland and small villages, we like these less traveled roads,

Our home for tonight is the Sardargarh Fort is one of the most magnificent and well-preserved examples of Rajput military architecture in Rajasthan. Located in the Lawa Sardargarh region of the Rajsamand district (about 90 km from Udaipur), it stands as a testament to the power and aesthetics of the Mewar nobles.

First stop is the Sas-Bahu Temple (or Sahasra Bahu Temple) in Nagda, Rajasthan, is a 10th-century Hindu temple complex located about 20 km from Udaipur. This strikingly beautiful complex is renowned for its intricate carvings and historical significance as a remnant of Nagda, the former capital of the Mewar Kingdom.

Originally called Sahasra-Bahu, meaning “the one with a thousand arms,” an epithet for Lord Vishnu.

It’s a prime example of Māru-Gurjara architecture (Solanki style), characterized by elaborate ornamentation. The complex consists of two main temples—the larger “Sas” temple and the smaller “Bahu” temple—facing east on a shared high platform.

The walls are adorned with scenes from the Ramayana, as well as depictions of the Hindu Trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva).

Nagda was a flourishing city until it was largely destroyed by Iltutmish (the Sultan of Delhi) in 1226.

The temples are now protected monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Our journey takes us through marble quarrying country and kilometer after kilometer of marble cutting and processing workshops.

The fort was built between 1738 and 1743 by Thakur Sardar Singh, a prominent noble of the Mewar state. It was constructed on the ruins of an older fort called Mana Thal, situated atop a hill to provide a 360-degree view of the surrounding plains and Aravalli ranges.

Interestingly, history records the head mason’s name as Gajadhar Premji, who is credited with the fort’s symmetrical beauty and robust defense features.

The fort is massive and entirely carved out of granite. It follows a traditional layout but is noted for its “fort-within-a-fort” design.

We have sighted many birds today the landscape is full of birds and we have seen buffaloes, nilgai and monkeys.

The descendants of the original rulers still live here and one of the daughters gave us an informative tour of the fort. They have opened up the fort to guests to help them fund continued restoration work. It doesn’t have a hotel feel but more like a family home and it’s intentionally done this way. We enjoy traditional music and dance before dinner, the night is clear, beautiful and warm.

It was a big day today.

We visited the Udaipur’s City Palace, it is a monumental complex that serves as a testament to the 400-year history of the Mewar dynasty. Perched on a hill along the eastern bank of Lake Pichola, it is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan and offers a panoramic view of the city and its surrounding lakes.

City Palace was founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II and expanded by 22 generations of successors. The architecture is a flamboyant fusion of Rajasthani Rajput and Mughal styles, with later additions reflecting European and Chinese influences. Built primarily from granite and marble, the complex is a maze of interlinked palaces, courtyards, and gardens.

• It served as the administrative hub and primary residence for the Maharanas of Mewar for centuries, remaining a symbol of royal resilience.

• The facade stretches over 800 feet in length and features ornate balconies, towering domes, and majestic gateways like the triple-arched Tripolia Gate.

• Mor Chowk (Peacock Courtyard), this is one of the most famous sections, renowned for its intricate glass mosaics of peacocks that represent the three seasons of summer, winter, and monsoon.

• Zenana Mahal: Once the private quarters for royal women, this area now houses museum galleries featuring delicate mirror work and frescoes.

• City Palace Museum: The museum displays a vast collection of royal memorabilia, including weaponry, ceremonial clothes, silver artifacts, and rare miniature paintings from the Mewar School.

• Badi Mahal (Garden Palace): Situated at the highest point of the complex on a 90-foot-high rock, this garden palace features marble swimming pools and offers some of the best views of the lake.

Part of the City Palace remains a residence for the royal family.

Then we were taken in a boat and motored out to the Taj Lake Palace and Jagmandir Island Palace, landing at the later to wander about its buildings and gardens.

We then visited local artists who practice fine brush art work. Large brushes are made from camel eyebrows and fine tiny brushes from Squirrel tail. The technique used results exquisite pictures painted on small canvases, made of paper, silk or camel bone.

The next stop is the Saheliyon ki Bari, a historic and prominent garden in Udaipur, Rajasthan, built between 1710 and 1734 by Maharana Sangram Singh II for the royal women. Located near Fateh Sagar Lake, the garden is famous for its fountains, kiosks, lotus ponds, and marble elephants, it’s alive with birds and locals enjoying the park.

It’s then off to the folk museum, which helps fills the gap on what we have seen, heard and experienced.