Marg and Simon

We enjoy another wonderful breakfast with a breathtaking view at the Cecil Oberoi.

Then a drive up to the “Monkey God Temple“, in Shimla is officially known as the Jakhoo Temple (or Jakhu Temple). Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, it is one of the most iconic landmarks in the city, famous for its massive statue and its large population of resident monkeys.

The temple is steeped in legends from the Ramayana:

The Sanjeevani Quest: It is believed that Lord Hanuman stopped at this hill while flying to the Himalayas to find the Sanjeevani herb to revive Lakshmana.

Legend says that the hill was originally much taller, but it flattened under the immense weight of Hanuman when he landed to seek guidance from a sage named Yaaku.

The name “Jakhu” is said to be derived from the sage Yaaku. The temple is considered ancient, with some local traditions suggesting a place of worship has existed there for millennia.

Tallest Hanuman Statue: The most striking feature is a bright orange 108-foot (33-meter) statue of Lord Hanuman. Unveiled in 2010, it is one of the tallest of its kind in the world and is visible from almost anywhere in Shimla.

Located at the highest point in Shimla: The temple sits atop Jakhoo Hill at an altitude of approximately 2,455 meters (8,054 feet), providing panoramic views of the Shivalik mountain ranges and the town below.

• Sacred Footprints: Inside the temple complex, there are stone structures believed to be the footprints of Lord Hanuman.

The temple is famous (and sometimes notorious) for its hundreds of Rhesus macaques:

Devotees consider the monkeys to be the descendants or “vanara sena” (monkey army) of Lord Hanuman.

Visitors are often warned to be careful with their belongings. The monkeys are known for snatching glasses, sunglasses, cameras, and food. They often “hold items hostage” until they are offered food in exchange. We had first hand experience as a monkey out of nowhere snatched Marg’s glasses from her head, but thanks to the quick action of our guide, Ricky, a treat was offered as payment for return of the glasses.

We could see the snow capped peaks of the beginning of the Himalayas, it was a beautiful sight, could easily bring a tear to one’s eye.

A trip from the temple down into the Main Street in the chairlift is a must, and gave us a breathtaking view of the city.

We continue to see many birds and Ricky our guide has helped us to identify many of them. The most impressive was the Himalayan Griffon Vulture, Gyps himalayensis often seen soaring above the hills of Shimla. It is the largest and heaviest bird found in the Himalayas. It boasts a massive wingspan of up to 3 meters (nearly 10 feet) and can weigh between 8 to 12 kg.

They have a distinctive pale, khaki-colored body, dark wing feathers, and a white “ruff” of feathers around the base of their neck. Their heads are nearly bald, an evolutionary trait that helps keep them clean while feeding.

Because of their weight, they rarely flap their wings. Instead, they rely on rising warm air (thermals) to glide effortlessly for hours, often seen as small “V” shapes high above the Shimla Ridge.

Historically, these vultures were attracted to the area because of the high activity and occasional food waste. However, their primary role is ecological; they are “nature’s clean-up crew,” feeding on carcasses of animals in the surrounding valleys.

They are known to nest on the steep, inaccessible rocky cliffs surrounding the Shimla hills. In fact, Shimla is one of the districts in Himachal Pradesh where their population has remained relatively stable.

Like many vulture species in India, they were affected by the “vulture crisis” caused by the drug Diclofenac (used in livestock), though they were less severely impacted than lowland species. Recent sightings in 2025 and 2026 across Himachal Pradesh suggest a positive comeback for the species, with many birdwatchers now visiting Shimla specifically to photograph them from the Jakhoo Hill vantage point.

As we drive out of Shimla we are seeing that education and caring for the environment is important. There is an active campaign to keep Shimla clean and this is very obvious, due to the lack of rubbish compared to other areas in India we have visited. It is not fantastic yet but it is an improvement.

We pass many schools and research facilities, they even have a potato research centre and a Leopard hospital.

The Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre, Tutikandi is the primary facility for leopards in Shimla and is the Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre at Tutikandi.  

It is managed by the Wildlife Wing of the Himachal Pradesh Forest Department. It specifically takes in leopards that have strayed into human settlements, been injured, or were orphaned (such as the rescue of a young cub from the Chakkar area near the district courts).

The centre currently houses several leopards. For example, recent reports noted that a male and female leopard were even transferred from here to Ludhiana Zoo for better long-term housing after they recovered from their injuries.  

Unlike a standard zoo, this is a rescue facility. It is primarily designed for the medical care and safety of the animals rather than public exhibition. Visitors are generally not encouraged as the goal is often rehabilitation or providing a stress-free environment for animals that cannot be released back into the wild.

We read a news article today that a leopard was seen in the city of Chandigarh. Ricky produced a photo he took while on one of his tours. It’s just amazing that these large animals are found amongst local human communities.

Sadly we have to leave Shimla today and catch a train from Chandigahr to Amaritsar. We will be coming back to Shimla one day.

We normally don’t critique or advertise our guides but Ricky was exceptional. For anyone interested in a Himalayan experience he would be worth considering. He showed us around Shimla in a thoughtful and informative manner. When things went a bit wrong, like a glitch with the you train and couple hour delay he was seamlessly able to reorganise our schedule to facilitate every event. With his advice we dined in local restaurants and cafes with locals where we enjoyed great food and friendly service. As he is a local we learnt about the indigenous plants and their uses, his knowledge about wildlife and landscapes was fantastic. When travelling in India all manner of quirky challenges can arise, whether it be cheeky monkeys or unexpected train ticket seating issues Ricky’s cool head and knowledge saw us through with no issues.

If anyone is interested in a Himalayan experience he would be a good person to trust.

Ravi Sharma(Ricky)

Ravialpineclutch@gmail.com

alpineclutchadventures.com

We are continued to be treated well by the locals, they have kindly accommodated our lack of knowledge about how India works, the train conductor was very kind in his handling of our seating complication and went to great effort to ensure we were comfortable. There was a mum and little girl on the train that wanted their picture taken with us, the people are extraordinarily friendly if you engage them and they get very excited when you try out a bit of Hindi dialogue.

We are cruising quietly at 109kmh on our train taking in the views of the Punjab.

We enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Oberoi Cecil, an outstanding hotel with equally outstanding views.

We board the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train at Shimla for a rail ride through the hills. The Toy Train is more than just a commute; it is a slow-motion journey through history, engineering, and the stunning landscape of the Himalayas. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, it remains one of the most scenic narrow-gauge mountain railways in the world.

Built between 1898 and 1903 to connect Shimla (the former summer capital of British India) to the Indian rail network, the line is a masterpiece of colonial-era engineering.

After departing from the train we have lunch, perched on a cliff overlooking Shimla, a beautiful sight.

It’s then a tour of the old English viceroy residence in Shimla, known as the Viceregal Lodge (and now as Rashtrapati Niwas), is one of the most historically and architecturally significant colonial buildings in India.

Built between 1880 and 1888 during the tenure of Lord Dufferin, it was designed by British architect Henry Irwin (who also designed the Mysore Palace).

It served as the official summer residence of the British Viceroy of India. Because Shimla was the summer capital, the entire British administration would relocate here from Calcutta (and later Delhi) to escape the heat.

The building was the site of several pivotal moments in world history, including the Simla Conference of 1945. It was within these walls that the final discussions for India’s independence and the Partition of India took place.

After independence, it briefly served as a summer retreat for the President of India, whose new estate is nearby. In 1965, it was handed over to the Indian Institute of Advanced Study (IIAS), which remains its current occupant.

While there is no constitutional “requirement” that mandates the President must stay at these estates for a specific number of days, long-standing tradition and official protocol dictate that the President makes annual visits to their residences to fulfill symbolic and administrative duties. Like the other estates the president will engage local residents at their residence.

The lodge is famous for its “Jacobethan” style—a mix of English Renaissance and Scottish Baronial styles—designed to remind the British of home.

It was constructed using local light blue-grey sandstone and limestone, but the interiors feature lavish woodwork made from Burmese teak, walnut, and cedar.

For its time, it was incredibly high-tech. It was the first building in Shimla to have electric lighting (installed in 1888) and featured a sophisticated firefighting system with wax-coated water pipes that would melt and release water in the event of a fire.

Originally spanning 331 acres (now about 110), the estate is famous for its manicured lawns and botanical gardens, which were meticulously planned by successive Viceroys. The buildings key features are.

• The Entrance Hall: A massive, wood-paneled hall with a grand staircase.

• The Partition Table: You can see the actual table around which the maps were drawn and the decisions for the Partition of India and Pakistan were finalized.

• The Library: What used to be the ballroom is now one of the most beautiful libraries in India, housing thousands of rare books and manuscripts for the institute’s scholars.

Then we walk the Main Street of Shimla, learning about tree and bird species. The most notable is the red-flowering rhododendrons, locally known as Buransh, are the botanical soul of Shimla. While there are several species in the region, the vibrant red ones (Rhododendron arboreum) are the most iconic, turning the mountain slopes into a “flaming forest” every spring.

These are evergreen trees that can grow up to 12 meters (approx. 40 feet) tall. They have dark green, leathery leaves with a silvery or cinnamon-colored coating on the underside.

While the deep crimson/scarlet is the most common at Shimla’s altitude (roughly 2,000m), you can find pink or white varieties if you climb to higher elevations like Kufri or Narkanda.

Out final stop is at the Christ Church, located prominently on The Ridge, is one of Shimla’s most enduring landmarks. As the second oldest church in Northern India (after St. John’s in Meerut), its yellow silhouette is synonymous with the city’s skyline.

Built to serve the growing British Anglican community, the cornerstone was laid in 1844, and the church was consecrated in 1857.

Its location was chosen so that it could be seen from miles away, symbolizing the presence and permanence of the British Empire in its summer capital.

It has survived over 160 years of Himalayan weather, including heavy snowfalls and seismic activity, largely due to its sturdy stone and lime mortar construction.

The church is a prime example of Neo-Gothic architecture, designed to mimic the parish churches of the English countryside. The stunning stained glass windows of the Christ Church were designed by John Lockwood Kipling, the father of the famous author Rudyard Kipling.

Today we leave our travelling companions and with a guide we negotiate the chaotic comings and goings of people through Delhi train station. Even though there are many platforms and thousands of people moving through the station the general population of Indian people seem at peace with these circumstances.

We board our train and head north through rural landscapes and small villages, we note mixed paddocks of wheat, sugar cane, flowers, fruit trees and vegetables. There are even agroforestry plots of eucalypts. When we reach Chandigarh we are met and taken by vehicle up what seem like vertical hills to Shimla. These are the foot hills of the Himalayas.

Our home for two nights is the Oberoi Cecil, a beautiful setting and building with helpful and wonderful staff, we feel like royalty here.

The Himalayan cedar, Deodar, are majestic, known as the “Tree of the Gods,” this is the dominant species and the state tree of Himachal Pradesh. It thrives on north-facing slopes and is prized for its majestic, horizontal branches and durable wood. It is such a contrast between Australia and India, trees can’t be harmed here even if they are weedy species like the American Redwood. In Australia farmers and urban developers have chiefly poorly managed the Australian landscape with impunity, Australia leads the world in native vegetation clearance, soil and biodiversity degradation is not much better, I wonder which is the more advanced civilization.

We take a short walk and then head down to the centre of town. Shimla seems to be entirely built on the side of an extremely steep mountain. Local residents here are fit and lean. The night life is abuzz with shop keepers selling their wares and dining venues of many and varied culinary styles.

Today we tour old and New Delhi, both are a hub of activity, one modern green and new the other old, historic, wafting smells of spices and humanity and green, both can overwhelm the senses – sensory overload is a common theme expressed by tourists. Despite the challenges locals face, people here never show or convey a cross word in public. They show abundant resilience and always provide a delightful smile when we engage them in our limited Hindi, which by the way we have a useful and growing vocabulary.

First stop is the “great mosque” in Delhi is the Jama Masjid (historically known as Masjid-i-Jahan Numa, or the “World-Reflecting Mosque”).  

While often associated with New Delhi, it is technically located in the heart of Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad), standing directly across from the Red Fort. It is widely considered one of the largest and most impressive mosques in India.  

It’s architectural Legacy: It was the final architectural masterpiece commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the same visionary behind the Taj Mahal.  

The mosque’s massive courtyard can hold up to 25,000 worshippers at a single time.  

Built primarily from red sandstone and white marble, it features three grand gates, four towers, and two 40-meter-high minarets.  

The mosque houses several sacred relics, including a hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad and a Quran written on deer skin.

After the mosque, it is onto Ricshaws and a tour of the back streets of Old Delhi. Narrow streets, all manner of goods being sold and wiring that would leave any sparky scratching their head. That said the current configuration has not caused any fires to date.

Then we visit the India Gate, with thousands of school children who are also in attendance. We are greeted by the masses with smiles, waving and hellos in good English they clearly happy to meet us and chat and very proud of their India.

The India Gate was originally called the All India War Memorial, is one of New Delhi’s most iconic landmarks. Standing at the eastern end of the ceremonial axis of Kartavya Path (formerly Rajpath), it serves as a powerful symbol of sacrifice and national pride.

It is a Tribute to Soldiers and was built to honor the 70,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 during the First World War and the Third Anglo-Afghan War.

The walls of the gate are inscribed with the names of over 13,000 soldiers who perished during these conflicts.

It was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the lead architect of New Delhi, and was inaugurated in 1931.

Its design is often compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and the Gateway of India in Mumbai.

The structure stands 42 meters high and is built primarily of red and yellow sandstone.

Located under the arch, the “Flame of the Immortal Soldier” was added in 1972 to honor Indian soldiers killed in the 1971 Indo-Pak War. While the primary flame was merged with the National War Memorial flame in 2022, the site remains a focal point for remembrance.

A short distance behind the gate stands a 73-foot cupola that once housed a statue of King George V; it now features a 28-foot-tall black granite statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose.

To date we have travelled 3,460 km most of that in just one state, Rajasthan, to finish the first leg of our Indian adventure. We have time to wander the markets and buy gifts for family and goods for the next day, which involves a train ride and a stay in the foot hills of the Himalayas. Travelling to Shimla in the state of Himachal Pradesh, it is the capital and largest city of Himachal Pradesh. Historically, it was famous as the “Summer Capital” of British India.

Then on to, Amritsar in the state of Punjab, it is the spiritual and cultural center of the Sikh religion and home to the famous Harmandir Sahib (the Golden Temple).

We have made our way back to Delhi, stopping at the Qutub Minar.  

Standing at 72.5 meters (238 feet), it is the world’s tallest brick minaret and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s located in the Mehrauli area of South Delhi and serves as a primary example of early Indo-Islamic architecture.  

Construction: Started in 1192 CE by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first Sultan of Delhi. It was later expanded by his successors, Iltutmish and Firoz Shah Tughlaq.  

The tower has five distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone, while the top two floors feature a mix of marble and sandstone.  

The Iron Pillar: Right next to the minaret in the same complex stands an ancient 7-meter-high iron pillar that is over 1,600 years old and is famous for its incredible resistance to rust.  

The “Unfinished” Rival: Nearby, is the Alai Minar, a massive stone base. Sultan Alauddin Khilji intended for it to be twice as tall as the Qutub Minar, but construction stopped after his death when it was only about 12 meters high. 

We also have a quick look at the Lotus Temple which is a Bahá’í House of Worship located in New Delhi, renowned for its striking flower-like shape and inclusive atmosphere. Since its completion in 1986, it has become one of the most visited buildings in the world, serving as a symbol of peace and unity.

Designed by Iranian architect Fariborz Sahba, the structure is composed of 27 free-standing marble-clad “petals” arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides.

• The Interior: Inside the central hall, which can seat up to 2,500 people, there are no idols, religious pictures, or altars. The focus is entirely on silent prayer and meditation, regardless of one’s personal beliefs.

• Symbolism and Purpose: True to the Bahá’í faith’s tenets, the temple is open to people of all religions. The lotus flower was chosen as the central design element because it is a symbol common to Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Islam.

It was the first temple in Delhi to use solar energy, highlighting a commitment to environmental harmony alongside its spiritual mission.

Today we visit the Taj Mahal, an artist workshop who excel in marble inlay and then enjoy a wonderful live Bollywood show that tells of the love story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal , which culminated in the building of the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is more than just a masterpiece of Mughal architecture; it is often described as “a teardrop on the cheek of time,” serving as a monumental tribute to a profound love story.

The story begins in 1607, when the young Prince Khurram (the future Emperor Shah Jahan) met Arjumand Banu Begum at a marketplace. It was reportedly love at first sight.

• The Marriage: They married five years later in 1612. Upon their marriage, he gave her the title Mumtaz Mahal, meaning “the Exalted One of the Palace.”

• An Inseparable Bond: Unlike many royal marriages of the era, theirs was a true partnership. Mumtaz was his trusted confidante and traveled with him even on military campaigns.

• The Tragedy: In 1631, while giving birth to their 14th child in Burhanpur, Mumtaz Mahal passed away due to complications.

• The Vow: Legend says that on her deathbed, she asked the Emperor to build a monument that would symbolize their love. Devastated by her death, Shah Jahan reportedly went into secluded mourning for a year, emerging with white hair and a bent back, dedicated to fulfilling her wish.

Construction began in 1632 and employed roughly 20,000 artisans over 22 years.

• The Material: It is crafted from translucent white marble, which famously changes color depending on the light—appearing pinkish in the morning, milky white in the day, and golden under the moonlight.

• The Inlay (Pietra Dura): The walls are decorated with intricate floral patterns made from semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, jade, and crystal, fitted so precisely into the marble that the joints are nearly invisible.

• The Garden: The Charbagh (four-part garden) represents the Islamic concept of Paradise, featuring reflecting pools that create a perfect mirror image of the mausoleum.

It’s an early start and with a drive along the boundary of the park before heading north-north east to Agra.

We drive past many miles of family farms, wheat is ripening and locals are in the field harvesting. As we approach Agra we note many tall stacks, brick kilns.

We visited Fatehpur Sikri, located about 37 km from Agra, it is a magnificent 16th-century “ghost city” and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, it served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585 before being abandoned, primarily due to a shortage of water.

The city was founded to honor the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who lived in the village of Sikri and correctly prophesied the birth of Akbar’s heir (the future Emperor Jahangir). After his victory in the Gujarat campaign, Akbar named the city Fatehpur Sikri (City of Victory).

The complex is a masterpiece of red sandstone, showcasing a unique “Akbari” style that blends Islamic, Hindu, and Jain architectural elements. Key structures include:

• Buland Darwaza: The “Gate of Magnificence,” standing at 54 meters, is one of the tallest gateways in the world. It was built to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat.

• Jama Masjid: One of the largest mosques in India, its design incorporates Persian and Indian motifs.

• Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti: A stunning white marble structure located within the mosque’s courtyard, famous for its intricate marble lattice (jali) screens.

• Panch Mahal: A unique five-story columnar pavilion that decreases in size as it ascends. It was likely used by the royal ladies for relaxation and to enjoy the breeze.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Known for its central carved pillar with a circular platform where Akbar would sit and conduct religious and philosophical discussions.

• Jodha Bai’s Palace: The largest residential complex in the city, reflecting strong Rajasthani and Gujarati architectural influences.

Then it’s off to the Agra Fort. From here we can see the Taj Mahal. The fort is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is one of the most significant Mughal monuments in India. Often overshadowed by its neighbour, the Taj Mahal, this massive red sandstone fortress was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638.

Originally a brick fort known as Badalgarh, it was captured by Akbar the Great, who rebuilt it with red sandstone from Rajasthan. While Akbar built the primary structure, his grandson Shah Jahan (the builder of the Taj Mahal) added the white marble palaces. The fort is also famously where Shah Jahan was later imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, spending his final days gazing at the Taj Mahal from a balcony.

The fort is more accurately described as a walled city. It is shaped like a semicircle, with its straight edge parallel to the Yamuna River.

• The Walls: The fort is enclosed by double 21-meter high walls of red sandstone, punctuated by four massive gates.

• Delhi Gate & Amar Singh Gate: The Delhi Gate is the most grand, though the Amar Singh Gate is the one currently used by tourists.

The interior contains a labyrinth of buildings that transition from the rugged red stone of Akbar’s era to the refined white marble of Shah Jahan’s reign:

• Jahangiri Mahal: The largest residential palace in the fort, built by Akbar for his son Jahangir. It features impressive stone carvings and a massive stone bowl (hauz) used for bathing.

• Khas Mahal: A beautiful white marble palace overlooking the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden), designed as the emperor’s sleeping chamber.

• Musamman Burj: An octagonal tower with a clear view of the Taj Mahal. This is where Shah Jahan was held under house arrest for eight years until his death.

• Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience): A flat-roofed assembly hall where the emperor heard the grievances of the common people.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Used for receiving kings and dignitaries; it once housed the legendary Peacock Throne before it was moved to Delhi.

• Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque): A pristine white marble mosque known for its architectural symmetry.

Both buildings are beautiful unfortunately the Fatehpur Sikri was stripped by locals when palace dwellers moved. The fort was stripped of its fineries by the British.

Tomorrow we visit the Taj Mahal.

We saw tigers!

What an amazing place, exotic landscapes and wildlife.

Ranthambore is most famous for its Bengal Tigers, which are known for being active during the day, making them easier to spot than in many other reserves.

Beyond tigers, the park hosts leopards, sloth bears, striped hyenas, mongoose and jackals. The herbivore population includes Sambar deer (India’s largest deer), Chital (spotted deer), Nilgai (blue bull), and Wild Boar.

The park’s lakes are home to Marsh Crocodiles (Muggers) and various snakes like the Indian Python and North Indian Flap-shelled Turtle.

With over 320 species, it is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Common sightings include the Crested Serpent Eagle, Painted Stork, and the Indian Peafowl.

🪨 Unique Geology

The park’s landscape is defined by the confluence of two major mountain systems: the Aravalli and the Vindhya ranges.

The Great Boundary Fault: This major geological fault line runs through the park, creating a dramatic landscape where the sharp, jagged ridges of the Aravallis meet the flat-topped plateaus (locally called “Dangs”) of the Vindhyas.

The park is bounded by the Banas River to the north and the Chambal River to the south. Three main lakes—Padam Talao, Malik Talao, and Raj Bagh—act as vital watering holes for the wildlife.

The vegetation is primarily dry deciduous forest, dominated by the Dhok tree (Anogeissus pendula), which can survive extreme droughts and turns the hills a beautiful reddish-brown during the dry season.

🏰 Historic Buildings

Unlike most national parks, Ranthambore is dotted with ancient ruins that provide a regal backdrop to the wilderness.

• Ranthambore Fort: A UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 10th century. It sits atop a hill 700 feet above the plain, featuring massive gates, stepped wells, and ancient temples.

• Trinetra Ganesh Temple: Located inside the fort, this is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Rajasthan. It is unique for housing an idol of Lord Ganesha with three eyes.

• Jogi Mahal: A red sandstone hunting lodge situated on the banks of Padam Talao. It once served as a royal guest house for the Jaipur royal family and features one of India’s largest banyan trees nearby.

• Raj Bagh Ruins: Situated between Padam Talao and Raj Bagh Lake, these stone arches and broken walls are remnants of old palaces where tigers are frequently seen lounging.

Morning session.

Afternoon session

We explore the Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, it is a monumental 18th-century astronomical observatory and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the largest and best-preserved of the five observatories built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II across India between 1724 and 1735.

The site is essentially a collection of 19 massive architectural instruments designed to observe the heavens with the naked eye.

The name is derived from the Sanskrit words Yantra (instrument) and Mantra (calculation/formula), it literally means “instruments for calculation.”

The Founder: Jai Singh II was not just a king but a brilliant mathematician and astronomer. He found existing astronomical tables inaccurate and built these stone structures to provide more precise data.

Completed in 1734, the site represents the pinnacle of medieval Indian astronomy, blending social, religious, and scientific practices.

The “buildings” at Jantar Mantar are actually specialized scientific tools. Here are the most famous ones:

• Vrihat Samrat Yantra: The world’s largest stone sundial, standing 27 meters high. It can measure local time to an accuracy of 2 seconds.

• Jai Prakash Yantra: Two sunken hemispherical bowls that map the sky. An observer can walk inside them to track the coordinates of stars and planets.

• Ram Yantra: Used to measure the altitude and azimuth of celestial bodies.

• Misra Yantra: A unique instrument capable of telling when it is noon in various cities around the world.

The observatory was built using local stone and marble because Jai Singh II believed that metal instruments were prone to wear and tear and would lose their accuracy over time.

Next we walk across the road to the City Palace it is a magnificent complex that serves as a living museum and the historical seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Established by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in 1727, the palace is renowned for its seamless fusion of Rajput, Mughal, and European architectural styles, featuring a series of expansive courtyards, manicured gardens, and ornate buildings.

• Pritam Niwas Chowk: This inner courtyard is famous for its four small “Seasonal Gates,” each dedicated to a Hindu god and decorated with intricate motifs representing the four seasons, such as the stunning Peacock Gate representing autumn.

• Mubarak Mahal: Originally built as a reception center for visiting dignitaries, this “Welcome Palace” now houses a textile museum showcasing royal costumes, Kashmiri shawls, and delicate silk saris.

• Chandra Mahal: The most commanding structure in the complex, this seven-story building is still the residence of the royal family. While the upper floors are private, visitors can explore the ground floor which contains a museum of royal artifacts.

• Diwan-i-Khas: This marble-paved gallery is home to two massive silver vessels known as Gangajalis. These are officially recorded in the Guinness World Records as the largest sterling silver vessels in the world.

After lunch we make our way to the Ranthambore National Park, located in the Sawai Madhopur district of Rajasthan, it is one of India’s most iconic and celebrated wildlife reserves. Once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur, it is now a cornerstone of the Project Tiger initiative and a UNESCO-recognized landscape where history and nature intersect.

The park’s unique charm lies in its “living ruins.” Ancient structures, including the massive 10th-century Ranthambore Fort that towers over the forest, and others are scattered throughout the wilderness.

The park is situated at the junction of the Aravalli and Vindhya hill ranges, featuring a dramatic landscape of deep gorges, rugged hills, dry deciduous forests, and large lakes like Padam Talao.

Within the forest, you will find stone chhatris (cenotaphs), abandoned palaces, and the Trinetra Ganesha Temple, which is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Rajasthan.

We will be exploring the park tomorrow.

We are in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Here we visit the Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of Winds,” is the most iconic landmark in Jaipur’s “Pink City.” Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh and designed by architect Lal Chand Ustad, it is a five-story pyramidal structure made of red and pink sandstone that stands as a masterpiece of Rajput and Mughal fusion architecture.

The palace was originally designed as an extension of the City Palace’s zenana (women’s chambers). Its primary cultural purpose was to allow royal women, who observed the strict purdah system of remaining unseen by the public, to watch street festivals, royal processions, and daily life in the Johari Bazaar below without being observed themselves.

Next stop is the Amer (or Amber) Fort, often referred to as the Amber City, it was the historic capital of the Kachwaha Rajputs before the founding of Jaipur in 1727.

Amer: This is the official name of the town and the fort. It is derived from Ambikeshwar, a name for Lord Shiva, or possibly Amba, the Mother Goddess Durga.  

Amber: This is the anglicized version of the name, which became popular during the British colonial era. It likely gained traction because the golden-yellow sandstone of the fort resembles the color of amber.

Located about 11 kilometers from the modern city, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of India’s most magnificent examples of hill-top fortresses.

The city is essentially a sprawling complex of massive fortifications, paved paths, and the iconic Amber Palace, all reflected in the still waters of Maota Lake.

Ancient Origins: The area was originally settled by the Meena tribe. The present-day fort was commissioned in 1592 by Raja Man Singh I, a trusted general of Mughal Emperor Akbar.

Growth: Over the next 150 years, successive rulers added their own palaces and courtyards, creating a seamless blend of Rajput military architecture and Mughal decorative art.

The fort is built from yellow and pink sandstone and white marble, organized into four distinct sections, each with its own courtyard:

Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors): This is the fort’s crown jewel. Its walls and ceilings are entirely covered in thousands of tiny mirrors and colored glass. It was famously designed so that the light from a single candle would illuminate the entire hall like a star-filled sky.

Ganesh Pol: This massive, ornate gateway serves as the entrance to the Maharaja’s private palaces. It is renowned for its beautiful frescoes and intricate mosaic work.

Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure): An early example of “air conditioning,” this room features a system where cool water flowed through marble channels, creating a breeze to combat the desert heat.

Magic Flower Fresco: A famous carving on a marble pillar that depicts seven different designs (a lotus, a cobra, an elephant trunk, etc.) depending on how you partially cover the image with your hands.

Secret Tunnel: A 2-kilometer subterranean tunnel connects Amber Fort to the nearby Jaigarh Fort. This was designed as an escape route for the royal family during times of siege.

Kesar Kyari (Saffron Garden): Situated in the middle of Maota Lake, this star-shaped garden was originally intended for growing saffron, though the climate now makes that a challenge.

After the fort we attended a Holi festival and was covered with bright colored powder, these vibrant powders (known as Gulal) are much more than just a messy celebration—they carry deep symbolic weight that blends mythology, seasonal changes, and social commentary.  

Historically, these powders were made from medicinal herbs like neem, turmeric, and dried flower petals (like Palash), which were thought to help prevent the fevers and colds common during the change of seasons from winter to spring.

The most profound meaning of the powder is its role as a social equalizer. In traditional Indian society, strict barriers often existed between different castes, religions, and economic classes.  

When everyone is covered in layers of bright pink, green, and blue, individual identities disappear.  

For one day, there is no “rich” or “poor,” only a sea of color. It represents the idea that, at our core, we are all the same.

After the festival we visit a jewelry workshop. Jaipur is recognized worldwide for its jewelry. We took time to visit the markets, dinner and traditional dances followed by a drive past the Prince Albert museum another beautiful building and but simply stunning in the night lights.