We enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Oberoi Cecil, an outstanding hotel with equally outstanding views.
We board the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train at Shimla for a rail ride through the hills. The Toy Train is more than just a commute; it is a slow-motion journey through history, engineering, and the stunning landscape of the Himalayas. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, it remains one of the most scenic narrow-gauge mountain railways in the world.
Built between 1898 and 1903 to connect Shimla (the former summer capital of British India) to the Indian rail network, the line is a masterpiece of colonial-era engineering.
After departing from the train we have lunch, perched on a cliff overlooking Shimla, a beautiful sight.
It’s then a tour of the old English viceroy residence in Shimla, known as the Viceregal Lodge (and now as Rashtrapati Niwas), is one of the most historically and architecturally significant colonial buildings in India.
Built between 1880 and 1888 during the tenure of Lord Dufferin, it was designed by British architect Henry Irwin (who also designed the Mysore Palace).
It served as the official summer residence of the British Viceroy of India. Because Shimla was the summer capital, the entire British administration would relocate here from Calcutta (and later Delhi) to escape the heat.
The building was the site of several pivotal moments in world history, including the Simla Conference of 1945. It was within these walls that the final discussions for India’s independence and the Partition of India took place.
After independence, it briefly served as a summer retreat for the President of India, whose new estate is nearby. In 1965, it was handed over to the Indian Institute of Advanced Study (IIAS), which remains its current occupant.
While there is no constitutional “requirement” that mandates the President must stay at these estates for a specific number of days, long-standing tradition and official protocol dictate that the President makes annual visits to their residences to fulfill symbolic and administrative duties. Like the other estates the president will engage local residents at their residence.
The lodge is famous for its “Jacobethan” style—a mix of English Renaissance and Scottish Baronial styles—designed to remind the British of home.
It was constructed using local light blue-grey sandstone and limestone, but the interiors feature lavish woodwork made from Burmese teak, walnut, and cedar.
For its time, it was incredibly high-tech. It was the first building in Shimla to have electric lighting (installed in 1888) and featured a sophisticated firefighting system with wax-coated water pipes that would melt and release water in the event of a fire.
Originally spanning 331 acres (now about 110), the estate is famous for its manicured lawns and botanical gardens, which were meticulously planned by successive Viceroys. The buildings key features are.
• The Entrance Hall: A massive, wood-paneled hall with a grand staircase.
• The Partition Table: You can see the actual table around which the maps were drawn and the decisions for the Partition of India and Pakistan were finalized.
• The Library: What used to be the ballroom is now one of the most beautiful libraries in India, housing thousands of rare books and manuscripts for the institute’s scholars.
Then we walk the Main Street of Shimla, learning about tree and bird species. The most notable is the red-flowering rhododendrons, locally known as Buransh, are the botanical soul of Shimla. While there are several species in the region, the vibrant red ones (Rhododendron arboreum) are the most iconic, turning the mountain slopes into a “flaming forest” every spring.
These are evergreen trees that can grow up to 12 meters (approx. 40 feet) tall. They have dark green, leathery leaves with a silvery or cinnamon-colored coating on the underside.
While the deep crimson/scarlet is the most common at Shimla’s altitude (roughly 2,000m), you can find pink or white varieties if you climb to higher elevations like Kufri or Narkanda.
Out final stop is at the Christ Church, located prominently on The Ridge, is one of Shimla’s most enduring landmarks. As the second oldest church in Northern India (after St. John’s in Meerut), its yellow silhouette is synonymous with the city’s skyline.
Built to serve the growing British Anglican community, the cornerstone was laid in 1844, and the church was consecrated in 1857.
Its location was chosen so that it could be seen from miles away, symbolizing the presence and permanence of the British Empire in its summer capital.
It has survived over 160 years of Himalayan weather, including heavy snowfalls and seismic activity, largely due to its sturdy stone and lime mortar construction.
The church is a prime example of Neo-Gothic architecture, designed to mimic the parish churches of the English countryside. The stunning stained glass windows of the Christ Church were designed by John Lockwood Kipling, the father of the famous author Rudyard Kipling.




































