Our Indian adventure – day 17

It’s an early start and with a drive along the boundary of the park before heading north-north east to Agra.

We drive past many miles of family farms, wheat is ripening and locals are in the field harvesting. As we approach Agra we note many tall stacks, brick kilns.

We visited Fatehpur Sikri, located about 37 km from Agra, it is a magnificent 16th-century “ghost city” and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, it served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585 before being abandoned, primarily due to a shortage of water.

The city was founded to honor the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti, who lived in the village of Sikri and correctly prophesied the birth of Akbar’s heir (the future Emperor Jahangir). After his victory in the Gujarat campaign, Akbar named the city Fatehpur Sikri (City of Victory).

The complex is a masterpiece of red sandstone, showcasing a unique “Akbari” style that blends Islamic, Hindu, and Jain architectural elements. Key structures include:

• Buland Darwaza: The “Gate of Magnificence,” standing at 54 meters, is one of the tallest gateways in the world. It was built to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat.

• Jama Masjid: One of the largest mosques in India, its design incorporates Persian and Indian motifs.

• Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti: A stunning white marble structure located within the mosque’s courtyard, famous for its intricate marble lattice (jali) screens.

• Panch Mahal: A unique five-story columnar pavilion that decreases in size as it ascends. It was likely used by the royal ladies for relaxation and to enjoy the breeze.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Known for its central carved pillar with a circular platform where Akbar would sit and conduct religious and philosophical discussions.

• Jodha Bai’s Palace: The largest residential complex in the city, reflecting strong Rajasthani and Gujarati architectural influences.

Then it’s off to the Agra Fort. From here we can see the Taj Mahal. The fort is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is one of the most significant Mughal monuments in India. Often overshadowed by its neighbour, the Taj Mahal, this massive red sandstone fortress was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638.

Originally a brick fort known as Badalgarh, it was captured by Akbar the Great, who rebuilt it with red sandstone from Rajasthan. While Akbar built the primary structure, his grandson Shah Jahan (the builder of the Taj Mahal) added the white marble palaces. The fort is also famously where Shah Jahan was later imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, spending his final days gazing at the Taj Mahal from a balcony.

The fort is more accurately described as a walled city. It is shaped like a semicircle, with its straight edge parallel to the Yamuna River.

• The Walls: The fort is enclosed by double 21-meter high walls of red sandstone, punctuated by four massive gates.

• Delhi Gate & Amar Singh Gate: The Delhi Gate is the most grand, though the Amar Singh Gate is the one currently used by tourists.

The interior contains a labyrinth of buildings that transition from the rugged red stone of Akbar’s era to the refined white marble of Shah Jahan’s reign:

• Jahangiri Mahal: The largest residential palace in the fort, built by Akbar for his son Jahangir. It features impressive stone carvings and a massive stone bowl (hauz) used for bathing.

• Khas Mahal: A beautiful white marble palace overlooking the Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden), designed as the emperor’s sleeping chamber.

• Musamman Burj: An octagonal tower with a clear view of the Taj Mahal. This is where Shah Jahan was held under house arrest for eight years until his death.

• Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience): A flat-roofed assembly hall where the emperor heard the grievances of the common people.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Used for receiving kings and dignitaries; it once housed the legendary Peacock Throne before it was moved to Delhi.

• Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque): A pristine white marble mosque known for its architectural symmetry.

Both buildings are beautiful unfortunately the Fatehpur Sikri was stripped by locals when palace dwellers moved. The fort was stripped of its fineries by the British.

Tomorrow we visit the Taj Mahal.

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