We head off late, well that’s 8.30am for a look around Witjira National Park. It’s one of the driest regions in a Australia yet it does have a beauty, though one that should be treated kindly as this desert region can be unforgiving on people and vehicles.

We stop first at Dalhousie Springs, it’s amazing. A large body of water in this region is a sight that has to be seen. These springs form part of a chain of mound springs that extend along the boundary of the Great Artesian Basin. The day is a cool 20 degrees celsius and the wind is strong so we waste no time in jumping into this spring that is running at 34-37 degrees celsius. The water is said to be millions of years old.

The springs are full of native fish which are inquisitive to the point that dozens will graze upon you at a time – one way to get rid of old skin. A dingo circles around the grounds, they show little fear of man and the Topnot pigeons fall asleep in the sun almost at your feet. The camp ground facilities there are good, and there are showers. It’s a hard place to leave but we move on.

The track ranges from rough to a really crappy rough road but it’s easily driveable if one drives at the right speed.

The county is full of surprises, mound springs, gibber plains and clay pans and rocky step ups makes for a beautiful landscape. Sometimes it suddenly opens up and you are driving down a escarpment onto clay pans. Other times it makes you pray that you don’t break down, any peculiar noise coming from the truck greeted with some level of concern.

We roam around the Old Dalhousie ruins just a few kilometres away. The ruin is a testimony to the courage of the pioneers who tried to make a go of it in this land, it seems only the aboriginals have mastered that.

We also stop at Pedirka the abandoned railway siding on the old Ghan railway line. Strange to stand upon the railway platform in the middle of a gibber plain. How did people survive let alone work in these areas?

We move onto Oodnadatta for a bite and refuel at the Pink Roadhouse, a must stop. Then drove off into the sunset in time to catch the last rays upon the Painted Desert then make it just on dark to Arckaringa Station. This cattle station like many now provide excellent camping facilities for travelers. Arckaringa even has cabins. It’s great to have a hot shower at the end of a day. The couple that manage the station are young which is great to see.

We plan a very early rise in the morning, hoping for some photos of the sunrise on the beautiful colours of the hills of the Painted Desert.

We sleep under the stars, a Boobook is calling and dingoes can be heard in the distance.